The City Chokes on Shashlik Smoke
Why Food Service Businesses Ignore Environmental Regulations
Kazakhstan's restaurant leader demands stricter eco-rules for food businesses
As is well known, small and medium-sized enterprises in this southern metropolis form the backbone of the city's economy, accounting for up to 60% of the gross regional product. Within this sector, food service—cafés, restaurants, grill bars, and eateries—plays a particularly prominent role.
Yes, these establishments create a comfortable urban environment and boost the city's appeal to tourists. But only up to a point. Despite the economic benefits, the industry has another side—one that raises serious concerns about compliance with sanitary and environmental laws, particularly air pollution regulations.
To discuss this issue, we spoke with Gulnara Katibayeva, chair of the Restaurant Association of Kazakhstan. Our attention was drawn to her recent social media post urging businesses to follow the law.
When asked to assess the level of environmental awareness among food service entrepreneurs, the expert was blunt: it remains alarmingly low. The most pressing problem is the acrid smoke billowing from shashlik grills.
Having led the Restaurant Association of Kazakhstan for over a decade, Katibayeva views the situation through a unique lens. A fourth-generation resident of Almaty, she approaches the issue not only as a business representative but also as a citizen and a mother, speaking first and foremost from a civic standpoint.
"Unfortunately, we have to admit that most food service operators have a woefully underdeveloped environmental conscience," she says. "Profit comes first, while the harm their grills, hosper ovens, and charcoal pits inflict on the environment is treated as an afterthought."
According to Katibayeva, despite existing regulations, many restaurateurs either disregard environmental requirements outright or comply with them only on paper.
"I keep telling everyone: don't fool yourselves. Tomorrow, inspectors will check your documents—and they'll find that the hydrofilter you installed is either counterfeit or nonfunctional. Too often, equipment is put in place just to tick a box. But that won't work anymore, because regulators have started thoroughly verifying whether exhaust systems, fans, and electrostatic precipitators are actually operational," the industry expert warns.
Katibayeva emphasizes that under air quality protection laws, all stationary pollution sources must be equipped with filtration systems. The association insists on mandatory hydrofilters with spark arrestors—even for gas-powered grills. Such equipment not only cleans the smoke but also neutralizes odors.
At the same time, she cautions against the risks of using uncertified devices.
"Equipment used in food service establishments must be certified and have a technical passport, while ventilation systems must comply with sanitary standards," says Gulnara Katibayeva, head of the Kazakhstan Restaurateurs' Club association.
A separate issue in the discussion was the performance of regulatory bodies. According to Katibayeva, she sees no tangible results from their work. She cites the situation in the gorges near Almaty, where national park territory begins, as an example. Food service businesses there continue to operate using open flames—yet why is this allowed?
"Every day, I explain the requirements of environmental law in group chats, and if someone doesn't understand, I'm ready to clarify them one-on-one," she says. "But there are those who ask, 'Why do we even need this?' My answer is simple: to avoid fines, reputational damage, or even having your business shut down."
Katibayeva believes one way out of the current situation is to establish a transparent monitoring system with public involvement.
"We need to set up monitoring groups in every district," she insists. "These should include representatives from our association, environmental prosecutors, eco-police officers, activists, and journalists. Our association's experts should be invited as consultants—we can explain what's happening at a business, not to punish, but to ensure entrepreneurs know exactly what the law requires of them. Oversight must be transparent, and the results of these inspections should be covered in the media so that businesses understand: compliance is under public scrutiny."
