In these pandemic times, luck prevails for some fortunate souls in various European mountains, as the idea of owning a ski resort draws nearer to reality.
With Covid-19 causing many closures in ski resorts across Switzerland, Austria, Spain, Bulgaria, Norway, and Sweden, countries like France, Italy, and Germany maintain their shutdowns due to the deemed high risk of virus outbreaks.
Limited tourism results in locals and mountain dwellers having to struggle for their livelihoods and endure high living costs, among other pandemic-related consequences.
Austria identified popular ski resorts like Ischgl as Covid-19 hotspots in the previous winter. These resorts then had the choice to open despite the country's lockdown, and St. Anton opted for the operation of some lifts and the sale of season and daily tickets to local skiers. Hotels, pensions, and lodges remained closed, causing low visitor numbers.
"Strange times," exclaimed
"Spent these unusual times in such a beautiful place, skiing every day without company. It was thrilling for my five- and three-year-olds," said Andy Butterworth, director and co-owner of Kaluma Ski, a luxury ski chalet operator based in St. Anton. "It's amazing to have children playing in the snow."
Butterworth added, "Combined with the perfect storm and great snow conditions, it's a little bit like being in Nirvana."
Butterworth described the atmosphere in the town as "relaxed" and noted the locals to be "grateful" that they could still ski while the world was in turmoil.
Poisoned apple: Regulations and fines
Imposing rules, such as cordoned-off and socially distanced waiting lines, reduced lift capacity, and the obligatory use of FFP2 masks, were enforced, along with the closure of lines to Lech and Zürs and non-opening of lifts farther up the mountain.
"Everybody adheres to the rules, recognizing how much luck we've had," said Butterworth, admitting that recent cases of illegal tourist gatherings had caused unease among the locals.
Nearly 100 foreigners, including British, Danish, Swedish, Romanian, German, Australian, Irish, and Polish nationals, were placed under quarantine in St. Anton, potentially facing fines of up to 2,180 € (2,605 $) for breaches of travel and quarantine regulations, according to local police reports.
Locals too fear losing their lifts again due to economic reasons or the possibility of virus outbreaks, potentially due to stories of St. Anton lift operators losing 60,000 Euro per day just for operating.
Starting his morning edge-to-edge on the Galzig and Gampen lifts, Butterworth recalled a January trip, "The deepest snow I've ever skied on."
"St. Anton received over seven feet of snow in 72 hours, an event unheard of before," he said. "It was mid-knee-deep powder, and every turn felt like the perfect moment, with the snow flying over our heads." "Everyone was alive with excitement."
However, this serene scene only offers a glimpse of Alpine life during the pandemic.
"It's a sad part," Butterworth lamented, recalling his role in guiding distressed resort guests to evacuation centers during the early stages of the virus outbreak. "There are no open mountain restaurants, no open bars, you can only ski, and there's no hot chocolate or lunch to enjoy on the mountain."
"I walked down the street and saw three people, which on a day like this, in late January, is such an unusual, abstract, strange sight," Butterworth remembered.
"It's a ghost town," he said of the lack of activity, sadness evident in his voice. "It's beautiful, with snowing, but it's empty. The shops are open; only banks, pharmacies, and supermarkets remain."
The vacuum of sound was a loss, Butterworth mused, sharing his concerns that most businesses may never reopen after the winter.
However, the uncertainty of the crisis is the most challenging to navigate for Butterworth, as he endeavors to strategize for his business within a constantly shifting landscape. "Christmas and New Year's were horrendous, plans changed constantly, but now the season is as good as a write-off, mentally it's easier," he said, adding that "our focus is on summer and the next winter."
Opening arms in France
French ski resorts have reopened their mountains for tourists, but their lifts remain closed.
Marketing teams on social media focused on enticing visitors with fresh air, breathtaking landscapes, hiking, and an alpine atmosphere, emphasizing alternative activities rather than skiing. Among them, sledding, hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and child ski lessons and e-fatbikes, snowmobiles, and helicopters became popular ski resort alternatives. On the other hand, swimming pools and bowling alleys, including museums, were closed.
Many French ski resorts also offer guided ski tours for those adventurous enough to venture to the mountain and make their way. Called "skinning" or ski touring, the practice involves strapping skins to your skis to ascend but not descend, a release of the heel to maintain mobility. At the summit, you simply detach your skis, switch back to your traditional mode, and enjoy the descent.
"So calm"
!"
Due to limited safety and medical facilities on the slopes, guided ski tours in most ski resorts are limited to pre-designated, marked mountain ascents and descents from the summit, with exceptions for skiers accompanied by a guide or instructor.
"It started snowing, and when we emerged from lockdown and were allowed back to the mountains, we started skinning, which was fantastic," said Sian Maher, a Courchevel-based physiotherapist with Ski Physio. "Everyone, whom I know, is now walking in socks on the mountain and skiing back down, which is quite exciting if the mountain is quiet."
Three guided ski tour paths are open three times a week in the resort, along with a daily off-piste trail connecting Le Praz to Courchevel 1850 at an elevation of 1,300 meters.
A lift has already resumed service but only for locally licensed skiers seeking training on the slopes, serving as a welcome boost for Maher's teenage children experiencing the thrill of the slopes in the shadow of the coronavirus pandemic.
In early December, American ski champion Mikaela Shiffrin also claimed her 67th World Cup victory in one of the races held in Courchevel.
Physiotherapist Maher said about 80% of Courchevel's businesses were now open, with select eateries still offering takeaway meals. Nationwide, she noted, the police have been stern in preventing unauthorized après-ski gatherings at 18:00, with some events still taking place.
"I went for a walk around 18:30 after a treatment, it was really sad to see," she said. "There was nothing, nobody was about. It was very angry. It wasn't like a seasonal shift; it was a little more tedious than a seasonal shift, there were a few activities, but then it was over."
"Christmas and New Year's were very quiet, just a few Frenchmen and a few chalet owners. But in all fairness, the kids loved the snow. That was quite exciting. There's a lot of digging happening and people going to practice areas to learn skiing and snowboarding," she said, her voice laced with hope.
The "Wow" factor
"Some people really enjoy it, but it depends on where you fall in the spectrum of unemployment," said Maher, whose business had taken a significant hit in the last season. "For our jobs, it's a total disaster."
Maher, whose business typically employs about 14 people, will be forced to cut down on staff this year as she focuses on freelancers to reduce costs.
"We're dependent on the winter season, which makes up about 99% of our costs," she noted, "and physiotherapists, doctors, nurses, pharmacists, and apothecaries are not listed among the government's priority list for financial assistance. Fox farms and circus performers are but physiotherapists are not. It's really mentally exhausting."
"A mad year"
The charms of Courchevel during the pandemic were evident, with Despert Z's "White Storm" snow equipment rental open, albeit with a substantial financial hole hanging over his head. Hooper, a qualified yacht captain, was instead busy preparing for a new electric mountain bike business in South England.
"I enjoy it because there's nothing left to do," Hooper said, remarking on the unusual quietness on snow-white hills, formerly a hive of sporty activity.
"It's going to be a mad year, as I'm opening a new business in Val d'Isère and will be starting from scratch," Hooper said with cautious optimism. "I'm used to businesses closing on Saturdays and Sundays, a first in 25 years, but I'm not blaming anyone. It's just what it is."
"I went out at 13:00 for a crystal-clear sunny day and spent an hour reaching the peak of the Signal lift in Courchevel 1650 and skiing down in unbelievable snow," he said, the excited tone in his voice still evident. "I could've skied another hundred times, but there was still a rope to hold onto. No one was around." "It's amazing."
However, Hooper warns that the financial implications could be dire for ski resorts: "Resorts can make a lot of money in a season, but not every season." I'm not sure what's coming next."
The dark side
Despite the pleasure derived from the untracked slopes, the locals confessed a yearning for a return to normality.
In the northern French Alps and the Swiss resort of Verbier, several large avalanches have been recorded with fatal victims. In Courchevel, an Italian ski instructor died after being buried during a solo skiing adventure.
Explaining the volatile conditions resulting from a weak compactness layer in the snow, avalanche expert Henry Schniewind of Val d'Isere warned of the increased instability.
"We're entering known terrain, but the risk situation has changed because there's a weak compactness layer," Schniewind explained during a recent webinar. "It's highly volatile, highly unpredictable. Is it dangerous? It depends on the decisions we make."
While the allure of having the ski resorts almost to oneself brings joy to the soul and for bank balances, shared happiness might prove better in the long term.
"We've enjoyed a fantastic month skiing on empty slopes, but we all wish for everything to return to normal," concluded Butterworth.
"[...]"
There's a silver lining, even when the world appears bleak. With ski lifts closed in many European mountains due to the virus, the lucky few in these mountainous regions and local skiers alike seize the day on the untouched slopes.
Butterworth finds joy in the "super unusual" experience of having the slopes practically to himself and embracing the solitude, which only amplifies the awe-inspiring beauty of the mountains. Meanwhile, new rules ensure everyone's safety while still providing the opportunity to enjoy the slopes.
As they revel in this gift, locals embrace the tranquility, sensing the rarity at every turn. St. Anton, for instance, sees a calm atmosphere with everyone abiding by rules and appreciating their fortunate circumstance, despite the nervousness caused by law-breaking tourists in the area.
Correspondingly, regulations step in, ensuring stringent safety measures at the resorts. With obligatory FFP2 masks, social distancing at the lift queues, limited lift capacity, and banned lift tickets to Lech and Zürs, the resorts remain cautious amidst the unfolding pandemic.
Though the general feeling on the mountain is of relaxed serenity, fines and quarantines serve to remind the partakers of the severity of the situation. Some travelers, particularly those from the United States, found themselves slapped with fines for breaching travel and quarantine regulations while in St. Anton.
As much as butterworth and his fellow Austrians appreciate this exclusive opportunity, they remain hopeful of a return to normalcy soon.
Elsewhere, France refuses to be left behind in the ski paradise race. While their ski lifts remain closed, resorts focus on other allurements that drive visitors. Offering fresh air, breathtaking landscapes, hiking, and an alpine atmosphere, these French resorts increase their appeal without the skiing element.
Visitors are lured by alternative activities such as snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and child ski lessons, among others, in an attempt to minimize the pandemic's burden while still providing a fun-filled vacation.
Butterworth's observation of the French resorts highlights the aftermath of this unique pandemic situation. Many swords are held high in anticipation as landscapes shift and revenues plummet. For those unable to weather these storms, the pandemic has served as a damper on their festive spirits.
The psychological toll takes its toll as those in the industry grapple with their new realities. Businesses deemed non-essential face the cusp of extinction, while those requiring support from the government remain on tenterhooks for aid.
In the words of Maher, "It's mentally exhausting."
But as we've learned, adversity can fuel resilience and promotion of innovative solutions. For some, their will to thrive despite the hurdles makes them more determined than ever.
Resorts have adapted to the new normal by utilizing dynamic pricing models, maximizing profits during peak periods. Some resorts have also turned the tables, focusing on year-round tourism, sustainability initiatives, and technology integration.
The mountain and ski resorts industry reports a remarkable recovery, surpassing the 2019 figures by reaching USD 1.2 trillion by 2024. This newfound prosperity was driven by strong leisure tourism and renewed travel demand. With adventure tourism and domestic activity peaking, the mountain and ski resorts industry also rebounded, reaching USD 15.7 billion in value.
Notably, luxury ski resorts, represented by companies like Vail Resorts, experienced steady growth, boasting enhanced Epic Pass subscription services and premium winter travel experiences.
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While the precipitating factors differ, it is clear that the ski resort industry has evolved and adapted to this pandemic landscape. Despite the pain and struggle, some have seen their fortunes change, demonstrating the resilience and adaptability of humans in challenging times.
Sources: [1] [2] [3] [4]
