Thorough Evaluation of Evolv's Addict Rock Climbing Shoe
Rock Climbing: Evolv Addict - A Versatile Climbing Slipper
Evolv's new climbing slipper, the Addict, stands as a solid contender in the rock climbing world, mirroring the tried-and-true design of Five Ten's Moccasym but at a lower price point. Though it falls slightly behind in comfort and stickiness compared to the Moccasym, the Addict proves itself as a quality all-around shoe with commendable versatility.
Performance-wise, the Addict shines on slabs and in cracks, particularly excelling on coarse granite terrains. It delivers impressive results on Joshua Tree's varied pitches, demonstrating its ability to meet the demands of various climbing scenarios. The shoe's slipper design also makes it a popular choice for multi-pitch climbs due to its quick and easy on-and-off convenience.
In terms of construction and materials, the Evolv Addict adopts a simple design that focuses on essential components, including a flat sole, leather upper, and elastic pieces. This design not only simplifies the shoe but also contributes to its excellent performance in crack climbing. The leather upper is comfortable, while the elastic maintains a firm grip during heel hooks.
The Addict's MX-P midsole provides sufficient rigidity for excellent edging and flexibility for optimal performance on friction slabs. Despite its performance, the Trax rubber does not quite match the stickiness found on plastic surfaces, making it a less ideal choice for indoor climbing.
The Addict is suitable for a wide range of climbing scenarios, though it was primarily designed for slab and crack climbing. Joshua Tree was an ideal testing ground, highlighting the shoe's superior performance on coarse granite. Its rubber does not perform as well on plastic, but its affordability maintains its popularity among climbers.
Fit-wise, the Addict features a snug fit with good heel lockdown, requiring some effort for wider feet to fit comfortably. Length-wise, the shoe is true to street shoe sizing, but the leather upper is expected to stretch over time, necessitating sizing down for those with narrow feet.
For climbers looking for alternatives to the Evolv Addict, other standout options include the La Sportiva Mantra, Scarpa Vapor, Tenaya Mundaka, Scarpa Reflex V (on sale), Boreal Crux Lace, and La Sportiva Miura VS (Women’s version). These shoes offer high performance, balance sensitivity and support, or provide a lace-up fit for customization at varying price points.
In summary, the Evolv Addict serves a broad climber demographic well, particularly those focusing on slab and crack climbing. Its affordability, coupled with its strong performance, maintains its position as a viable option among climbers and beginners alike.
The Evolv Addict's versatility in various climbing scenarios is apparent, making it a suitable choice for travelers seeking a reliable performance shoe, particularly for slab and crack climbing. Although it may not perform optimally for indoor climbing, its affordability and strong performance continue to attract climbers and beginners seeking a versatile sports shoe.
