Brewing a storm in the world of fashion, this American maverick based in the US wows us with his radical designs that rewrite the rulebook for modern-day fashion. Take a gander at one of his newest creations from the Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2022 collection – a Crêpe wool gown that leaves jaws dropped. Made with two panels of "Gazellenhorn" fabric, it boasts embellishments galore, including golden Lamé thread, golden beads, gold-polished beads, handcrafted golden tassels, Swarovski Shiqi crystals, and rhinestones. To add an extra touch, two breast-like buttons made of gold-plated brass rest below a diadem sporting a beast's horns.
Go beyond the traditional mundane fashion, as Daniel Roseberry calls it, with these mesmerizing pieces from Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022. These designs flaunt voluminous silhouettes, imposing shoulders, and luxury materials, with intricate details that deserve extra attention. Enhancing their allure is the surrealistic undertone with a hint of perversity that makes them even more jaw-dropping.
Hailing from a reserved, native Texan living in Maine, Roseberry has an unlikely background for such revolutionary styles. Born and raised in the Lone Star State, he revels in his coastal migratory lifestyle. In his Parisian studio, he discussed his shocking transformation, revealing, "My life, my personality, and my emotional reality were at stark contrast with the work I wanted to showcase."
Roseberry made history when he was appointed as artistic director of Schiaparelli at the tender age of 33, becoming the first and, to date, only American to head a French fashion house. With no experience in leading a luxury fashion house, lacking formal Haute-Couture training, and devoid of French linguistics, he took on this formidable challenge with boldness.
Questioning the heritage of Schiaparelli's illustrious founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, became unavoidable. A rebel in her time, Elsa, though born as a wealthy Italian aristocrat, was no stranger to scandal. She penned an explicit collection of poems titled "Arethusa." Her defiant spirit led her to a Swiss convent and then a quick exit following a hunger strike. She later married, divorced, and embraced a bohemian lifestyle, attracting an artistic circle in Paris.
Typifying the avant-garde spirit of that era, she collaborated with Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dali to create one of fashion history's most iconic pieces: the legendary Lobster Dress, complete with a massive lobster on the bodice. Despite her groundbreaking designs, Schiaparelli paid close attention to mainstream appeal. She graced the cover of Time Magazine and managed to secure an appearance on the popular American game show "What's My Line?"
Roseberry was undeterred by Schiaparelli's impressive legacy and dedicated time to researching her life, her artistic contributions, and her archives. He respectfully wove her values into his designs while establishing his creative voice. Rejecting the confines and exclusivity of traditional Haute-Couture, Roseberry deemed it his mission to break down walls and truly expose the process.
Describing himself as a hands-on designer who is involved in every step of the design process–from drafting initial sketches to finalizing photoshoots–Roseberry strives to breathe life into his creations. He is known for his experimental nature, often defying traditional rules and embracing his American identity with freedom.
In a true test of his creativity, he created twelve outfits for Lady Gaga just nine days before the U.S. President's inauguration. Out of the designs, a red and blue silk dress with a fitted navy military jacket and a massive dove brooch caught Gaga's eye. The creation brought immense pride and a boost in his career, solidifying his commitment to shaping the modern fashion landscape.
Sources:
- "Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Is Fetishistic, But It’s Not About That. It’s About Elsa Schiaparelli." Vogue. 10 Nov. 2022
- "Everything We Know About Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2022 Show." Mytheresa. 15 Jul. 2022
- "Daniel Roseberry Redefines Schiaparelli for a New Generation." Dazed. 15 Jul. 2022
- "The Most Anticipated Fashion Shows of Spring 2023." Elle. 1 Feb. 2023
