Sweet Encounters: The Tale of Japan's Delectable Deserts
This serendipitous encounter transformed Japan and its cuisine forever. One thing these monks and later many Portuguese brought to this land was a simple, powerful, and popular ingredient - sugar.
In the 16th century, Nagasaki on the island of Kyushu was the only city where foreigners could trade with the Japanese. As a result, it developed a strong taste for sweets.
Many of today's most popular Japanese Wagashi (sweets) have their roots in Kyushu.
One such delight is Castella, a Portuguese-style sponge cake with a distinctly Japanese twist: plum syrup made from adzuki beans. Although the sponge cake originated in Portugal, this unique Japanese ingredient sets it apart.
The best place to purchase some for yourself is Fukusaya. Established in 1624 in Nagasaki, it opened its first bakery. In Fukuoka, Kyushu's largest city, you can find its main branch in the bustling Akasaka district, not far from the Hakata Station, the western endpoint of the Shinkansen high-speed railway line.
Castella is cut into cubes, individually wrapped in colorful packages, and boxed as gifts here. Akasaka staff mentioned that while unusual flavors like cherry blossoms in spring or chocolate at Christmas might occasionally be offered, the classic Castella flavor remains their best-seller.
Castella (known as "kasutera" in Japanese) is also featured in Dorayaki, another beloved Japanese dessert. The Castella in Dorayaki is thinner, baked into a pancake layer, and filled with a sweet, red bean paste.
Europe Meets Japan, Japan Meets Europe
Another popular European dessert in Japan is Macarons.
Known locally as "Macaron" in English, these treats are made with almond flour instead of traditional almond flour and often include traditional Japanese flavors such as green tea or red beans.
"I think Japanese people enjoy Western pastries, especially French pastries," says Michele Abbatemarco, a pastry chef at the Est restaurant in the Tokyo Four Seasons in Otemachi.
This mutual appreciation goes both ways.
"Japanese bakeries have developed remarkably in the last 50 years. Additionally, there are numerous bakeries worldwide that draw inspiration from Japanese products," he adds.
The famous Kyushu confectionery brand known for its European-Japanese desserts is Kitajima with its flagship store in Saga City.
Keep an eye out for Portuguese Marupolo cookies with honey, French Madeleines with additional walnuts for texture, and Margherita cakes made with almond flour, which resemble a large flower.
The Royal Legacy
One of Japan's most beloved and easily recognizable sweets is Kinpei confectionery. These pastel-colored candies resemble crystalline stars or flowers. The name is said to originate from the Portuguese, referring to a candy called "confeito" brought to Japan by sugar sellers.
Although their size may suggest a focus on sweetness, these delicacies hold great value. Sugar was so expensive that even a small piece was extremely valuable.
Luxury ingredients are often associated with wealthy and powerful individuals. In Japan, there is no more prominent family than the imperial family, led by the Emperor and Empress.
It is tradition for royal guests, including heads of state and other members of the royal family, to receive gilded candy boxes, or "Bonbonnieres" (French for "sweet delight boxes"), as welcoming gifts when they attend important events such as weddings or coronations.
The sweets are specially crafted by the Tokyo silversmith Miyamoto Shoko and carry the imperial emblem, the chrysanthemum. Inside, fortunate recipients, including the recent kings and queens of Spain, the Netherlands, and England, find flat gold candies.
From the Past to the Future
Today, some chefs in Japan are working to revive local products that were used before the arrival of sugar.
One such chef is Abat Marco. In more than a decade since settling in Japan, he's managed to obtain some of Japan's rare honey, which was traditionally used for sweetening before the advent of sugar.
At Est, the Michelin-starred French restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel, Marco and his team serve Petit Fours with buckwheat honey, white Wagyu Sanbon (fine white sugar), and other hard-to-find local specialties.
For him, it's not just an opportunity to introduce these flavors to hotel guests but also a tribute to Japan's small-scale producers.
Foreign tourists now primarily visit Japan by airplane rather than by sailboat. However, many still have a fondness for sweets.
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Japan's love for Western pastries, especially French pastries, is strong. Employees at Akasaka noted that while unusual flavors like cherry blossoms in spring or chocolate at Christmas might occasionally be offered, the classic Castella flavor remains the most popular.
Foreign tourists often visit Japan by airplane rather than by sailboat. However, many still have a fondness for sweets. A special favorite among them are the Maruboro cookies, which are sweetened with Japanese honey.
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Enrichment Data: Japanese sweets have been influenced by various European traditions, particularly those introduced by Portuguese and French confectioners. Here are the key points:
Portuguese Influence
- Sugar Introduction: Sugar was introduced to Japan in the 16th century by merchants from Europe, including Portugal. This led to a significant change in Japanese sweets, making them more sweet and colorful[1].
- Traditional Confections: The history of Japanese sweets dates back to the 8th century, when confections were brought back from China. However, the use of sugar became widespread after its introduction from Europe. Traditional Japanese sweets like Chagashi, which are enjoyed during the tea ceremony, were influenced by these new sweetening agents[1].
French Influence
- Modern Sweets: From the 20th century onwards, baked sweets and other Western sweets gained popularity in Japan. One notable example is Baumkuchen, a treat that was first presented by German confectioner Karl Juchheim in 1919 but has since become popular in Japan[1].
- KitKat Flavors: The introduction of KitKat in Japan in 1973 and the subsequent unique Japanese flavors, such as Azuki Toast-flavored KitKat, reflect the blending of Eastern and Western sweets. This flavor is inspired by the famous Ogura Toast from Nagoya[1].
Specific Desserts
- French Macarons: While there is no specific mention of French macarons in traditional Japanese desserts, the influence of French patisserie techniques can be seen in modern Japanese bakeries and high-end restaurants like Pages, which blends French and Japanese techniques to create gourmet desserts[3].
- Contemporary Creations: Modern Japanese desserts often combine traditional ingredients with Western techniques. For example, matcha green tea mochi cakes, which use matcha powder and coconut milk, reflect the blending of Asian and Western flavors[2].
In summary, Japanese sweets have been influenced by European traditions, particularly the introduction of sugar from Portugal and the adoption of French patisserie techniques. These influences have shaped the modern Japanese sweets landscape, incorporating both traditional and modern elements.
