"Swift Horses" Film Unveils Timeless Pearls, 50s Elegance, and Symbolic Wardrobe Designs
In "On Swift Horses," costume designer Jeriana San Juan weaves a tapestry of symbolism through pearls, iconic '50s style, and subtle transformations. This visually striking film employs costume design to tell a deeper story of identity, empowerment, and love during a pivotal era. Delve into how costume design shapes character and narrative in this heartfelt tribute to resilience and authenticity.
In this interview, costume designer Jeriana San Juan shares her collaborative journey with director Daniel Minahan and the early stages of the project, which was inspired by Shannon Pufahl's novel. Speaking on their partnership, San Juan describes the unique bond formed through the intense production process of their previous project, "Halston."
Set in the mid-1950s, during the Korean War, the research conducted for the film's costume design focused on creating a timeless, emotionally resonant aesthetic, rather than an overly staged period piece. San Juan shares that the era's reality mattered, particularly given the time's deep-seated societal intolerance toward openly gay or lesbian individuals.
Rather than relying on direct reference materials, San Juan turned to early feminist texts, such as Betty Friedan, and lesbian civil rights organizations like the Daughters of Bilitis. Photographers like Nina Leen, Ruth Orkin, Vivian Maier, and John Koch's paintings provided visual inspiration, as did various underground resources like "The Ladder" and "The Invisibles." A research library in Rochester, the LILAC Library, and The Invisibles, a compilation of queer couple photographs found at flea markets, proved invaluable resources.
Collaborating with the exceptional cast, which includes Jacob Elordi, Diego Calva, and Daisy Edgar-Jones, proved to be a rewarding experience. San Juan notes that while the production lacked a substantial budget, the commitment to passion and excellence from the entire team brought the story to life. Each character's costumes were individually designed to evolve as their characters grew and developed, with murals exploring the performative nature of clothing, particularly for Muriel and Julius.
As the protagonist, Julius's journey from a transient life in Stockton to high-stakes gambling in Las Vegas is marked by changes in his wardrobe. Wearing a dated but elegant deerskin jacket, Julius seamlessly blends into the Vegas scene while maintaining a quiet individuality. Meanwhile, in California, Muriel experiences a new life after meeting her neighbor Sandra, and her wardrobe gradually transforms to reflect her growing agency and self-expression.
In this captivating film, costume design enables the narrative to unfold with depth and nuance, supporting character development and emotional resonance. "On Swift Horses" is now playing in theaters.
In the interview, Jeriana San Juan discusses her collaboration with director Daniel Minahan on the costume design for "On Swift Horses," which delves into how fashion-and-beauty and costume design shape character and narrative, specifically in the lifestyle of the 1950s. San Juan's research for the film's costume design included early feminist texts, lesbian civil rights organizations, and various underground resources, combining these influences to create a timeless and emotionally resonant aesthetic that also serves as a commentary on entertainment and general-news issues of the time.
