"Reversing course isn't always straightforward"
Alastair McDowell, a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team since 2016, and his climbing partner Rose Pearson recently attempted a climb up Rome Ridge on Mt Rolleston. However, they turned back after only a few hours on the mountain.
This was Alastair's fifth trip up Rome Ridge, but the first time he and Rose turned around. The decision was due to uncertainty about the snowpack, especially for the descent of the Otira slide.
The New Zealand Avalanche Advisory (NZAA) forecast described the fluctuating freezing levels of past storms creating many layers in the snow, which could potentially make the conditions dangerous. Alastair and Rose noticed significant changes in the snowpack every 50m to 100m in elevation gain.
Crow Valley appeared to be quite loaded with fresh news, adding to their concerns. Alastair emphasizes the importance of being willing to turn back if necessary, as once committed, it can be difficult to reverse the decision.
The pair returned by 1pm and were happy with their decision to turn around. Alastair, who has climbed Rome Ridge in perfect conditions on a different day, describing it as the best he had seen over the years, emphasizes the importance of developing a mountain philosophy and considering motivations for going into the mountains.
Alastair and Rose are experienced climbers, with Alastair being a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team since 2016. They are good climbing partners who know each other's risk tolerance levels and do not let ego influence their decision-making.
Alastair's tip for beginner mountaineers is to compare predicted conditions with observed conditions on trips to improve predicting safe and good conditions. He advises climbers to consider the motivations for their mountain endeavours and to prioritize safety above all else.
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