"Reversing course isn't always a straightforward endeavor"
In the rugged peaks of Mt Rolleston, experienced mountaineers Alastair McDowell and Rose Pearson found themselves faced with a challenging decision. On their fifth attempt to conquer Rome Ridge, the pair encountered fresh snow and uncertain snowpack conditions, making for potentially dangerous conditions.
McDowell, a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team since 2016 and a World Triathlon organisation member since 2016, emphasised the importance of developing a mountain philosophy and considering motivations for going into the mountains. He and Pearson, a seasoned climbing partner known for their mutual respect for each other's risk tolerance levels, took a cautious approach to the climb.
The pair were uncertain about the snowpack, particularly for the descent of the Otira slide. The snowpack changed significantly every 50m to 100m in elevation, as described by the New Zealand Avalanche Advisory (NZAA) avalanche forecast. Comparing predicted conditions to observed conditions is a tip for beginner mountaineers, according to McDowell.
After a few hours on the mountain, the reward to risk ratio was not quite there for McDowell and Pearson to continue the climb. They made the decision to turn back, a first for both climbers during this particular climb.
McDowell encourages beginner mountaineers not to be afraid to turn back. "Being willing to turn back if necessary can be difficult, especially once a committing situation is reached," he said. "But it's important to prioritise safety and make decisions based on the conditions at hand."
The pair returned to work by about 1pm after turning around. They took avalanche gear with them and were happy with their decision to turn back.
For those interested in learning about avalanche safety, resources such as the Learn Section on avalanche.net.nz are available. McDowell also recommends studying recent and forecast weather and NZAA forecasts for trip research.
Despite the turnaround, McDowell climbed Rome Ridge in perfect conditions on a different day, according to his statement. He looks forward to future climbs with Pearson and other fellow mountaineers, always prioritising safety and wisdom in their adventures.
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