Renowned mountaineer Ueli Steck, nicknamed the "Swiss Machine," rewrote history by setting new records on some of the planet's most famous mountains.
Swiss Mountaineer Ueli Steck Leaves Lasting Legacy in Alpinism
Ueli Steck, a Swiss mountaineer known for his speed and daring climbs, passed away on April 30, 2017, at the age of 40. Born on October 4, 1976, in Langnau, Emmental, Switzerland, Steck's passion for climbing was ignited at a young age.
By his mid-teens, climbing had become a major part of Steck's life, thanks in part to family friend Fritz Morgenthaler. At the age of 16, Steck was already climbing with the best, setting the stage for a career marked by both success and tragedy in the Greater Ranges.
Steck was known for his record-breaking climbs on the Eiger's Nordwand and the Eiger's North Face, which he conquered at the age of 18, propelling him to wider renown. In 2015, he set a record on the Eiger's Heckmair Route that still stands.
One of Steck's most daring feats was his solo ascent of Annapurna's South Face in October 2013, without supplementary oxygen. This was the first time the face had been climbed solo, earning him a place in the annals of elite mountaineering.
Steck and Simon Anthamatten rescued Inaki Ochoa and Horia Colibasanu on Annapurna's South Face in 2006. Tragically, Steck himself was struck by rockfall on Annapurna in 2007, plummeting 1,000 feet.
In 2009, Steck's ascent of the north face of Nepal's Tengkampoche, alongside Anthamatten, earned him his first Piolet d'Or. In 2017, he attempted the traverse of Everest and Lhotse, enchaining the world's highest mountain via the coveted Hornbein route on Everest's West Ridge.
Steck's legacy of bold ascents in the Alps and the Himalayas ensures that he will always have a place in the annals of elite mountaineering. He is survived through his wife Nicole.
Notable Mountaineers of All Time
Some of the most accomplished alpinists in the world include Reinhold Messner, Hermann Buhl, Walter Bonatti, and Edmund Hillary, each renowned for groundbreaking achievements in high-altitude and technical mountaineering.
Reinhold Messner is widely regarded as one of the greatest mountaineers due to multiple pioneering "world firsts." He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and was the first to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. His other feats include the first ascent of Manaslu, Everest, and K2 without supplemental oxygen, as well as the first 8,000-meter mountain hat-trick. Messner is recognized for pushing limits on high-altitude climbing with minimal equipment.
Hermann Buhl was a pioneering alpinist who made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953, one of the highest and most challenging peaks. He was also one of the first to climb Broad Peak. Buhl was a master of alpine-style climbing—small teams and fast ascents—on some of the world's toughest mountains. Despite his tragic death in a fall on Chogolisa in 1957, he is considered one of the most important rock and high-altitude climbers of all time.
Walter Bonatti was an Italian climber famous for the first solo ascent of the Southwest Pillar of Petit Dru and his role in the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV. Bonatti's skill and audacity made him a legend, and his climbing memoir The Mountains of My Life recounts many of his remarkable adventures.
Edmund Hillary (Sir Edmund Percival Hillary) was a New Zealand climber who, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 using supplemental oxygen. This was the first confirmed successful ascent of Everest, marking a milestone in mountaineering history.
Additionally notable are:
- Edurne Pasaban: First woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders (with oxygen)
- Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner: First woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen
- Kim Chang-ho: Set a speed record climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in under 8 years without oxygen
- Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa: Set a speed record of 92 days for all 14 peaks with oxygen in 2023.
These climbers exemplify the highest levels of skill, endurance, and pioneering spirit in alpinism.
Sports like alpinism have witnessed extraordinary feats from individuals such as Ueli Steck, who left a lasting legacy in his field. Notably, Reinhold Messner, Hermann Buhl, Walter Bonatti, and Edmund Hillary, among others, are noticed for their groundbreaking achievements in high-altitude and technical mountaineering, showcasing the unparalleled reach of sports even in the most challenging terrains.
