The Thrill of Iceland's Mysterious Monsters
By Katherine Fulton
As I strolled along the Sundhnúkagígar crater, where lava last erupted over 2,000 years ago, a 4-kilometer-long crack suddenly opened up, spewing hot magma into the sky and forming a new volcanic layer on the Earth's surface at a rate of 200 cubic meters per second.
The first time I experienced an earthquake in Iceland was a memorable one. I dashed towards the nearest door – isn't that what you're supposed to do? – in my attic apartment, one of the iconic Barujarn houses in Reykjavik, as the uneasy ceiling above me swayed. I was aware that my fate would be dire if the old wooden framework and corrugated sheet metal gave way.
The tremors soon subsided, but my knees still shook and my heart raced for longer.
My first glance at an active volcano came during the Fimmvörðuháls eruption in March 2010; it was a precursor to the infamous Eyjafjallajökull eruption that began a month later and spewed out an inappropriately named emoticon along with ash.
Dressed in snowsuits, boots, helmets, and hats, I ventured out on my snowmobile across the creaking crevasses of the Sólheimajökull glacier. As the sun dipped, I watched luminous fountains gush from the crevasses, while liquid magma shot high into the sky. Lava-waterfalls cascaded down the black, smoky side of the newly formed crater.
Its location is a multi-sensory delight. The glowing lava at the night sky, the heat waves from the eruption, the temporary relief from the crushing cold on the glacier's summit, and the thunderous rumble of the restless earth. This rumble remains the most vivid memory – the rumble of the pulsing earth.
Naturally, I hadn't anticipated the earth shaking beneath my feet back in suburbia near Toronto. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions were phenomena I'd only witnessed on TV or read about in ancient National Geographic magazines.
The tremors experienced in my bedroom were the closest thing to an earthquake - my sleeping quarters' door had been hammered shut in fear of rowdy teenagers.
It was only when I moved to Iceland in March 2009, lured by the opportunity to witness the transition of a country emerging from an economic collapse, that I started to appreciate and admire the world's explosive nature.
It's easy to appreciate Iceland's natural beauty. Very often, it has been described as beyond the world with its scarcity of dense forests, the occasional bustling bar, and sometimes mossy lava fields.
Curious tourists soon realize that the environment of Iceland must be respected for its protection as much as their safety. The Icelanders know this well, for although their country is breathtakingly beautiful, it always carries the potential for danger.
Respect for nature has long been part of the Icelandic culture. In 2008, residents of Grindavík, a town 50 kilometers south of Reykjavik, were displaced after volcanic activity forced them to flee their homes and stay with friends, family, and in Red Cross shelters throughout the country. Although most of the country remains safe, a large portion of the Reykjanes peninsula was evacuated in November due to the Icelandic Meteorological Office's prediction of an imminent eruption[1]. This prediction has now come to fruition.
Perhaps it's Iceland's stoic acceptance that "it just is," which has kept people in towns like Grindavik in place even as the ground beneath their feet began to tremble.
Year 2019 marked the beginning of a new volcanic cycle on the Reykjanes peninsula, marked by increased seismic activity and significant ground uplift around the Fagradalsfjall volcano, which erupted in March 2021, followed by several smaller eruptions in July 2022 and December 2022[2].
News reports during the seismic events stated that Grindavik was affected – although it was distant from the epicenter, it was within range of the vulcanic activity and posed no danger. Three eruptions over the past years have been termed "touristic eruptions" – taking place far from infrastructure and viewable only with a 10-kilometer trek[4].
Even the larger earthquake felt in Reykjavik could be detected in our concrete apartment building. As I listened, I could hear the compressive wave approaching, as if a massive truck was careening down the street before crashing into a building.
Reykjavik's 140,000 residents felt that same disquieting sensation during the events on the Reykjanes peninsula. Strange vibrations or occasional rumblings.
But the latest seismic activity on October 25 was different for the people of Grindavik. Instead of strange news reports about residents popping Seasickness tablets to cope with the shifting earth, Grindavik's residents described it as something worse – a monster lurking under their feet[4].
The monster awoke and caused thousands of earthquakes, before having a temper tantrum on November 10 and causing the ground to retreat from residents' feet yet again. Around 3,700 residents of Grindavik were eventually ordered to evacuate at night.
But the monster soon fell asleep, and the nation wondered if it was only a false alarm.
That monster had dug a 15-kilometer-long lava tube beneath the city. Then it slept soundly, and the nation speculated if it was only a false alarm.
But it was not truth.
To this day, no one has been injured, and the early volcanic activities have given geologists hope that lava streams will save Grindavik. But the geological instability and its potential impact on humanity are once again in the spotlight – since 1973, no entire city had been evacuated due to a volcanic event[3]. All eyes are now on Grindavik, waiting to see if the residents will return home. But are they ready?
The image of my first volcano will remain forever etched in my memory. The long and dramatic Sundhnúkagígar eruption will be forever engraved on my mind.
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5]
Enrichment*
*As of the latest updates, there is an increased likelihood of another volcanic eruption in the area around the Sundhnúksgigar eruption site near Grindavik, Iceland. The Icelandic Meteorological Office (IMO) has reported significant magma buildup beneath Svartsengi, which significantly increases the probability of a new magma intrusion or a full-scale volcanic eruption[3].
Current Status
- Eruption Likelihood: High, with increased seismic activity and magma accumulation[3].
- Safety Precautions: The Grindavik and Fagradalsfjall area has been declared a danger zone. Visitors are advised to stay away from the area and observe closures[1][5].
- Road Closures: The main road to the Blue Lagoon is still closed, and alternative routes are in place for visitors[1][5].
- Blue Lagoon Status: The Blue Lagoon remains open but with adjusted opening hours and shuttle services from Grindavik due to ongoing lava damage and road closures[1][5].
- Air Traffic: No impact on air traffic is expected at this time[1][3].
For the most up-to-date information, visitors should check the websites of the Icelandic government, Safetravel.is, the Icelandic Met Office, and Visit Reykjanes[1][3]. Live broadcasts of the eruption can be viewed on mbl.is and ruv.is[1][3].
