Embarking on a Mission as a Trailblazing Master Sommelier
Today, Carlton McCoy serves as the president and CEO of a winery in Napa Valley and is a member of the Diversity Committee for the Court of Master Sommeliers. Additionally, he's the host of the new series "Nomad with Carlton McCoy," which follows Chef, Sommelier, and travel enthusiast Carlton McCoy as he explores locations where food, music, art, and culture converge.
To boost diversity within the wine community, McCoy co-founded The Roots Fund to provide resources and financial support to Black and indigenous people who love wine, offering scholarships, mentoring, and employment opportunities for aspiring wine connoisseurs.
We asked McCoy to pen a letter to the next generation of Black Master Sommeliers, sharing his insights with an open heart.
The Odds of a "resilient generation" seem slim
It may be overwhelming to reach a significant achievement after years of hard work. Avoid feeling pressured to fit a certain mold. Do what works best for you. This is your journey—embrace it fully.
The significance of this achievement became apparent to me just a year after earning my Master Sommelier title. Truth be told, I was torn between shock and fear of separating myself from my accomplishments. A dose of imposter syndrome, which I continue to wrestle with, plagued me then. My path to success was neither simple nor straightforward.
Despite the complex history of Black people in America, some aspects of our journeys might share similarities. In my family, no one drank wine before enrolling in a wine certification program at the Culinary Institute of America. I purposefully use the term "forced" because I truly did not want to take that course and harbored fear of doing so. Luckily, I received a scholarship through the Career and College Access Program (CCAP) in Washington D.C.
Growing up in the Kitchen of Washington, D.C.
I was raised in the kitchen of Washington, D.C., by my powerful and loving grandmother, a Black woman who raised and nourished me while sharing her cooking expertise along the way. As the youngest child in my family who went on to attend college and received a CCAP scholarship to attend The Culinary Institute of America, it was a milestone not just for me but for the entire family.
The scholarship requirements were demanding, and even I knew that I had to perform well to avoid being sent back to Southeast Washington to pack my belongings.
I felt like I'd never return once I left Washington. My love for family and connections was strong, but I felt that I had to succeed to uphold our collective legacy. As a Black man in America, one's accomplishments do not pertain to just that individual but the entire community.
Succeeding as a Wein connoisseur in the face of adversity
Of course, I could not exit Washington without any fanfare. I forced myself to attend the wine program, diligently studied, and slept very little. Surprisingly, I found studying wine enjoyable, and my fear turned into an eagerness to learn more. Luckily, I passed the course.
My education continued, focusing once again on the culinary world, where I spent several years. My time in high-volume kitchens helped me develop my wine acumen and understand the commonalities between food and wine cultures. Both are essential elements in the journey to mastering the art of wine.
In 2006, I moved to New York City, dreaming of starting my culinary career at places like Daniel, Alain Ducasse at The Essex House, Aquavit, and Jean Georges. But New York City is not an easy place for a chef to break through. Shortly after I moved to the city, I came to realize that I could not become a chef and sustain myself there, leading me to reluctantly accept a server position.
Giving up was never an option. I could not go home. Despite my shame at transitioning from being a back-of-the-house worker to a front-of-the-house person, I worked hard to complete my Culinary Institute of America diploma. My pride at not becoming a chef and remaining in New York City was short-lived.
For months, I hid my new profession from family and friends. However, I soon realized that I enjoyed interacting with guests and sharing my passion for food with them.
DISCOVER YOUR WINE CAREER
After spending time at Thomas Keller's Per Se, I returned to Washington to support my family. There, I met Andy Myers, who introduced me to wine as a potential career path. An old punk-rock enthusiast-turned-sommelier, Andy made me reconsider my relationship with wine. Post-meeting, I quickly integrated into the local sommelier community and allowed wine to take center stage in my life.
As I delved deeper into wine, every opportunity to try something new or explore a new region offered a new learning experience. From understanding Chilean and Argentinean wines to exploring the culture, history, and politics of France, these experiences have shaped my understanding of the wine world.
Shortly after, I began taking the Court of Master Sommeliers exams. They provided some structure and clarity in my education, and I completed three out of the four required tests in just 18 months. At 8 a.m., I'd shower, shave, grab a coffee, and sit silently for hours, memorizing information. My studying was a mix of walking the streets and smoking one cigarette after another. By day's end, I'd return home and drink cool beers and smoke on the patio or in bed. The second day, I'd wash up, repeat the process, and study until I fell asleep with my book. I couldn't return to Southeast Washington and had no one to help me, so failure was not an option.
By the time I had passed my training, I hated the premise of these exclusive rooms. I harkened back to my family and my upbringing, remembering that I didn't belong there. No one in my family looked like me; no one shared my experiences or culture. I couldn't help but feel like an imposter.
All that changed when I co-founded The Roots Fund. Now, I have the opportunity to give back to the community, offering scholarships, mentorship, and job opportunities to young wine enthusiasts. With a year's worth of planning, I'm looking forward to launching The Roots Fund and helping more Black and indigenous individuals on their path to success in the wine industry.
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Despite his success and achievements as a Black Master Sommelier, Carlton McCoy admitted that his ascent brought its own challenges. He felt pressure to maintain a certain image and lived in fear of being exposed as someone who didn't truly belong in the esteemed world of wine. His skin color separated him from others in the field, making it difficult for him to find a sense of belonging or camaraderie.
Furthermore, discussions about representation and diversity within the wine industry were not prevalent at the time. He felt like his story should've been shared to inspire future generations of Black Master Sommeliers, but like many others in his position, he chose to keep his heritage a secret to thrive in his career.
Enrichment Data:
While the specific challenges Carlton McCoy faced as a Black Master Sommelier aren't detailed in the sources provided, we can infer some general insights from the context and broader industry discussions:
Challenges in the Wine Industry
- Diversity and Inclusion: Historically, the wine industry has been predominantly white, which can create barriers for people of color, including Black individuals. This may result in limited opportunities, networking, and recognition.
- Cultural and Racial Bias: Unconscious biases or stereotypes may exist, affecting how Black professionals are perceived or treated within the industry.
- Professional Recognition: Despite his remarkable achievements, including becoming a Master Sommelier and leading significant investments in Bordeaux and Napa Valley, McCoy might still face challenges related to professional recognition and respect within the industry.
Coping Mechanisms
- Building Relationships: McCoy has emphasized the importance of building relationships and understanding the local culture. He noted that once his company demonstrated genuine interest in learning from and contributing to the French culture, they were welcomed more openly.
- Leadership and Investment: By partnering with family-owned wineries and investing in vineyards with untapped potential, McCoy has demonstrated a commitment to preserving the legacy and aesthetics of these historic estates while bringing new life and a luxury-focused experience to them.
- Innovation and Adaptation: His approach to winemaking and business involves embracing new ideas and techniques, such as biodynamic farming, which reflects his openness to innovation and adaptation in the face of challenges like climate change.
- Leadership and Mentorship: By ruffling feathers with his decision to bottle wine from a single plot of Merlot vines at Château Lascombes, McCoy has shown a willingness to challenge traditional practices and mentor others in the industry, potentially helping to pave the way for more diversity and inclusion.
While the specific challenges faced by Carlton McCoy are not detailed, these general insights suggest that he has navigated the wine industry by building strong relationships, innovating in his approach, and challenging traditional practices. These strategies have likely helped him cope with the unique challenges he may have encountered as a Black Master Sommelier.
