Insights from a mountaineering catastrophe
In the tragic autumn day of 2017, the climbing community was shaken by the loss of two skilled climbers, Conor Smith and Sarwan Chand, on Marian Peak in the Darran Mountains of Fiordland, New Zealand. The two climbers, who were both experienced in their respective fields - Conor excelling in rock climbing and Sarwan in ice climbing - were just 22 and 27 years old.
The exact cause of the accident remains unclear, but several experienced and qualified climbers have reviewed evidence from the scene to develop conclusions about how the fall likely happened. What is known is that the dangers of a factor two fall on multipitch routes should never be underestimated.
The New Zealand Mountain Safety Council has pulled together learning points that are relevant for any climber who engages in trad climbing. One of the key takeaways is the importance of placing the first pieces of gear as soon as possible after leaving the belay. Ideally, these pieces should be two well-placed Cams, set for both outwards and downwards loading.
Anchors should also be equalised and built for purpose, ensuring they perform as intended when loaded in the expected direction. For trad anchors, at least three pieces should be used. Don't forget the basics and essentials of safety, even after gaining significant experience. Be critical of your safety management and ensure that you don't lose sight of it when put under pressure.
Another crucial safety practice is to consider the direction of pull when placing runners to avoid incorrect orientation of carabiner gates. Clipping into one of the anchor points as the first piece of lead protection may compromise the integrity of the anchor and add rope drag.
Ensure there are no twists in slings to prevent rotation when loaded. It's also important to place additional gear on multipitch routes to prevent an upwards or outwards loading before the next pitch begins. The anchor and the climber should ideally be independent, with the anchor solely for the safety of the belayer once the lead climber is on belay.
The tragic incident serves as a reminder to all climbers to never let their guard down when it comes to safety. All safety practices should be practiced to the point that they are second nature. Let us honour the memory of Conor Smith and Sarwan Chand by learning from their loss and continuing to prioritise safety in our climbing endeavours.
Read also:
- United States tariffs pose a threat to India, necessitating the recruitment of adept negotiators or strategists, similar to those who had influenced Trump's decisions.
- Weekly happenings in the German Federal Parliament (Bundestag)
- Southwest region's most popular posts, accompanied by an inquiry:
- Discussion between Putin and Trump in Alaska could potentially overshadow Ukraine's concerns
