In-depth Assessment of Scarpa Boostic Climbing Shoes
Spunky Take:
Dive into the world of high-end rock climbing shoes with the Scarpa Boostic. This bad boy marries Italian craftsmanship with a sleek, downturned shape for a fantastic performance on steep routes. But, beware, it ain't cheap at $179.
Released back in 2012, the Boostic still holds its ground in the competitive market. I took this beauty on a cross-country tour and gym visits, and it passed with flying colors. The build quality is top-notch, and the fit is just right for me. However, performance didn't quite meet my sky-high expectations, coming in at a 6 or 7 out of 10. It's a champion on gentle overhangs and steep terrain, but I found the toe patch lacked the finesse I was hoping for when it came to toe hooks.
The Vibram XS Edge rubber sole? Bloody fantastic! It's durable, strong, and Scarpa gave us a generous 4mm to play with. But Sportiva's XS Grip 2? That's a stickier rubber that might just edge it out.
Heinz Mariacher, the legendary shoe mastermind, put his touch on the Boostic. He's the guy behind La Sportiva's Mythos, Miura, and Testarossa – yep, some of their absolute best models. The Boostic sports an aggressive asymmetric toe shape, perfect for narrow pockets, and the V-Tension Active Rand system, designed to boost power in the toe without compressing the fit. It's a feat that's hard to imagine, but Mariacher did it!
My wide foot found the Boostic to be comfy as hell, thanks to a mesh half sock and velcro straps. My only gripe? The velcro straps hang over like a Neanderthal's hairdo. It ain't a deal breaker, but it's a bloody nuisance.
I'm an 8.5, and the Boostic fits true to size, so order accordingly. If you're used to La Sportiva, think more Evolv or Five Ten sizing. You can probably scooch down half a size if you want a tighter fit, but you won't lose any performance.
What I dig: the quality, the performance on steep lines (particularly at North Carolina's Rumbling Bald), and the durability – it's gonna last! What I don't: the finicky toe patch and the stiff competition at full MSRP.
The Boostic faces some serious competition from the likes of La Sportiva's Genius, Testarossa, Solution, and Futura, Five Ten's Hiangle, VXi, and Team Black, and even Scarpa's own Booster S and Furia. And don't forget about the more affordable options like Evolv's Shaman and Madrock's Redline.
In this tough crowd, the Boostic lands somewhere in the middle. If you can snag it on sale, this baby's a no-brainer. But otherwise? You got options, my friend.
The Scarpa Boostic, with its exceptional performance on steep routes, is ideal for climbers who enjoy sports like rock climbing and traveling to different climbing destinations. Despite its high-quality build and impressive features, such as the V-Tension Active Rand system, it may not be the ultimate choice for some, as it faces stiff competition in the sports climbing shoe market.
