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Guide for Recreating the Redressed Eight-Loop Knot for Climbing Purposes

Climbers employ a secure, powerful, and straightforward knot called the re-threaded figure-of-eight (or figure-of-eight follow-through) to link to a harness. The process involves crafting a figure-eight shape with a single rope, then passing it through the harness, ensuring a reliable attachment.

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A reinforced loop knot, frequently referred to as a figure-of-eight follow-through, is commonly...
A reinforced loop knot, frequently referred to as a figure-of-eight follow-through, is commonly employed by climbers to secure themselves to a harness. It's known for its safety, robustness, and simplicity in tying. By crafting a figure-of-eight properly, threading it through the harness, and completing the process, the knot forms a secure connection.

Guide for Recreating the Redressed Eight-Loop Knot for Climbing Purposes

In this detailed guide, we'll walk you through the steps to tie a rethreaded figure-eight knot, a crucial safety measure for climbers. This knot is known for being secure, strong, and easy to tie.

Our expert contributor, Teddy Bayakhmetov, a professional climber and owner of Ninja Tide in Stockholm, Sweden, demonstrates the process. With a focus on rope practice, rigging, and rescue services, his skills have earned him a reputation as a hero, with over 240 cat, bird, and human rescues from high places.

Steps to Tie a Rethreaded Figure-8 Knot

To tie a rethreaded figure-eight knot, follow these steps:

1. Make a Figure-8 Knot on a Bight

  • Form a loop (bight) in the rope.
  • Pass the working end over and under the standing part of the rope.
  • Feed the working end back through the loop, forming a figure-8 shape.
  • Leave the tail free for threading through the harness.

2. Thread the Rope Through Your Harness

  • Pass the loose end of the rope through the designated tie-in points on your climbing harness.

3. Retrace the Original Figure-8 Knot

  • Take the loose end of the rope and retrace the original figure-8 knot backward by following the path of the rope through the knot in reverse order.
  • Ensure the retraced line lies neatly alongside the original knot without crossing over or twisting.

4. Dress the Knot

  • Tighten the knot by pulling both the standing and loose ends evenly.
  • Remove any twists or gaps in the knot to create a neat, tight figure-8 shape.

(Optional) Finish with a Backup Knot

  • Tie a small overhand knot with the remaining tail close to the figure-8 to prevent slippage, especially if the tail is short.
  • Leave a tail of at least 6 inches beyond the backup knot.

Expert Tips

  • Check Tail Length: Ensure you have enough tail on the rope after tying (at least 6 inches) to prevent slippage.
  • Dress the Knot Properly: Perform this step to ensure the knot is properly dressed, with no crossed strands or twists.
  • Inspect Your Knot: After tying, have a climbing partner double-check your knot as part of the pre-climb safety routine.
  • Load Along the Axis: The figure-8 knot is strongest when loaded along the axis of the rope, not side-loaded or ring-loaded.
  • Practice Makes Perfect: Regular practice of tying and untying the knot will help build muscle memory and speed, allowing you to inspect the knot effectively.
  • Consider Alternatives: For high load situations, or if multidirectional loading is expected, consider alternative knots like the butterfly knot.

By following these steps and tips, you ensure a secure and reliable attachment to your climbing harness using the figure-8 follow-through knot, a widely recognized safe and trusted knot in climbing.

When it comes to sports, knowing how to tie a figure-eight knot can be crucial for climbers, not just for climbing harnesses, but for safety and security as well. With the rethreaded figure-eight knot, you can add an extra layer of protection by finishing with a backup knot. This simple skill, when practiced regularly, can save lives and make your climbing experiences safer and more enjoyable.

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