Guide for Conquering Granite Peak, Montana's Ultimate Summit
Climbing Granite Peak: An Unfiltered Account
Attempting to conquer Montana's highest summit, Granite Peak, has been a thrilling (and sometimes painful) journey over the past couple of decades. Here's a no-holds-barred account of my experiences to help you prepare for your own ascent.
First Summit Attempt - The Time I Turned Myself into a Human Sundae
It all began with my 18-year-old self, fresh-faced and clueless, along with my pals Clay, Pat, Zach, and our haphazard planning sessions in Clay's basement. Guided by youthful ignorance and budget-friendly gear, we set out on our Granite adventure, burdened by 60-pound packs.
Our journey took us through Mystic Lake and up the Phantom Creek Trail where the evilly named switchbacks demanded our attention. But young, strong, and stupid, we plowed ahead, eventually making camp on Froze-to-Death Plateau. Little did I know that the worst was yet to come.
Skip the sunscreen and sunglasses? That's what we did, soaking up the sun's vengeful wrath as it refracted off the snow and directly into my eyes and skin. The resulting burn was a lesson I'd never forget. Retina sunburn is no joke, my friends.
Lesson Number One: Protect your skin and peepers from the sun's relentless glare! Here's a cheeky poem, me singing my own praises, to help remind you: "Slather on the sunblock! Forget to do so, your regret will not gloss.")
Second Summit Attempt - Mother Nature's Revenge
Fast-forward a few years, and I found myself attempting to ascend Granite with a more prepared group. This time, armed with appropriate eye protection and sunscreen, we opted for a longer but gentler ascent via the East Rosebud side.
A few nights on the plateau transformed into a windy nightmare, and cloudy skies rolled in, pouring their wrath on us in the form of an unscheduled snowstorm.
My second lesson was learned: Early season climbing is a roll of the dice, and timelines are often disrupted by Mother Nature's whims.
First Realized Summit - The Huckleberry Horror Show
Armed with newfound knowledge, I tackled the mountain once more, this time alongside Dave Swanson. August seemed like the perfect time of year to avoid summer snow and afternoon thunderstorms. We chose the Huckleberry Creek Drainage approach despite its lengthy, lower-elevation hike, finishing off with a steep push to Avalanche Lake.
The boulder fields after Avalanche? Worse than I remembered. Small boulders gave way to oversized basketballs, and then we were scrambling on foot-sized rocks before hitting a half-mile-long scree field that threatened to swallow us whole.
We eventually made it to the summit, but the terrain was a blur by the time we reached the top. I do, however, recall that Dave had snagged a climbing guide from an out-of-service website (you can find it on the Wayback Machine) that guided us through the final climb.
Lesson Number Three: Approach through Huckleberry Creek? Not worth it, mate. Skip it and find another way, unless you're masochistic like me.
Second Realized Summit - Brave the Boulders, Again
In 2020, I joined Mark, Sheldon, and Jeffie on a return trip to Granite, and we once again climbed through the boulder fields. This time, I was more mentally prepared for what lay ahead. We made it to the summit with the help of our combined climbing knowledge, and I was reminded of the importance of both physical and mental preparation when tackling such a formidable peak.
Lesson Number Four: The boulder fields will still try to crush you. Prepare your body and mind for the challenge and persevere!
What You Should Know When You Climb Granite Peak
Climbing Granite Peak without ropes and technical gear is possible, but not advisable. The descent is particularly treacherous without the proper equipment.
If you desire to see the Huckleberry Creek Drainage, make it a separate trip, starting from Mystic Lake and ending at Avalanche Lake.
Remember, goats will be goats.
Snap lots of pics, and make sure to have a printed guide from the Wayback Machine or Summitpost to guide you through the climb.
Be ready for nerves. Push through and set small goals to help you conquer the mountain.
I didn't cook any meals during my climbs due to the warm weather. This lightened my pack and gave me more time to enjoy the scenery.
August is a superior month to climb compared to June due to more stable weather conditions.
Granite Peak is beast. It's bigger than it appears and demand respect. Take heed of its challenges, and you'll stand on top of Montana's highest summit, a conqueror in your own right.
- Lesson Number Five: Be prepared for dangerous and demanding terrain on the descent; carry the necessary equipment.
- Lesson Number Six: Treat every climb as an adventure, not a race. Embrace the challenge, set small goals, and savor the scenery along the way.
