Hong Ming Chan, founder of renowned Singaporean eatery Hawker Chan, lost his Michelin star despite the restaurant's fame for serving delicious yet affordable Hainanese chicken noodles at just $2.50. Usually priced, this delectable dish gained a spot in Michelin's inaugural Singapore guide in 2016 and was awarded a star.
However, with the release of their latest Singapore guide on September 1st, Hawker Chan, formerly known as Liew Fan Hong Kong Soy Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodles, had vanished from the listing.
As a result of the Michelin win, Meng's career took off, and his humble street food stall in Chinatown blossomed into a franchised restaurant chain spanning Thailand, the Philippines, and beyond. Renaming his establishment to Hawker Chan, he ventured into various culinary territories.
Upon inquiry regarding the loss of their Michelin star, Hawker Chan representative sent an email to CNN Travel, stating: "Chef Chan Han Ming has been preparing his famous Soy Sauce Chicken Rice according to his secret recipe and cooking methods since 2009. This approach has remained unchanged since the inception of his business in 2009."
Hawker Chan continues to be convinced that food should be prepared fresh daily and not in a central kitchen. Their vision is to continue offering tasty and budget-friendly meals, reflecting their core values. Chef Chan plans to work diligently to recapture the Michelin star the following year.
While some lauded Chan for maximizing his initial success, others argued that the food's quality suffered with the expansion of the restaurant chain.
Noted food critic KF Seetoh highlighted that the future of Singapore's dining scene transcends a single chef or restaurant. He emphasized the importance of keeping Michelin's core strengths and supports restaurants in need.
Singapore's tourism sector was heavily impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, with food and beverage industries particularly affected by border closures and local lockdowns. Singapore's high vaccination rate encouraged a cautious resumption of activities and careful planning for a Coronavirus-safe future.
Michelin under Scrutiny
Michelin, a subsidiary of the Michelin tire company, is often shrouded in mystery. The identities of its editors and contributors remain confidential. Its original purpose revolved around creating travel guides for European auto travelers, pivoting from tires to tourism. Food recommendations are occasionally made in these guides.
Later, Michelin introduced star rating systems, sporting up to three stars. Michelin is highly respected within the world of gastronomy, with some chefs obsessed with earning the distinction.
In 2019, French chef Marc Veyrat filed a lawsuit against Michelin, claiming that his acclaimed establishment, La Maison des Bois, was mistakenly demoted from three to two stars. Veyrat, first chef to sue Michelin, sought transparency regarding the enigmatic standards and the identities of the manuscript writers with relevant backgrounds.
Ultimately, Veyrat lost the case. However, he is not the only chef to publicly criticize Michelin.
South Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon, whose Ristorante Eo received a Michelin star in the 2019 Seoul Guide, expressed disappointment in being included against his wishes.
Eo called upon Michelin to investigate allegations of coercion and arbitrary criteria. Moreover, he argued that listing his restaurant, without his consent, tarnished the reputation of Eo's patrons and fans. Subsequent developments confirmed that Michelin is often criticized for focusing too heavily on Europe and North America while overlooking other regions and prioritizing top-tier restaurants.
To reconcile this criticism, Michelin launched a new category in 1997 – Bib Gourmand. Inspired by “simple cooking techniques,” these Bib Gourmand recommendations aim to create reproduction-friendly menus, fostering a sense of hominess.
In 2007, Michelin published its first Tokyo guide and followed it up with its inaugural publications for Hong Kong and Macau two years later.
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Hawker Chan did not disappear from Michelin's Singapore guide. Rather, the original stall that had gained a Michelin star was transformed into a full-fledged restaurant called Hawker Chan. It remains in operation, although its status as a street food vendor might have impacted perceptions of its quality.
