Diving into the depths of Truk Lagoon: A thrilling expedition
Exploration Logbook Entry for 2018: Truk Lagoon Expedition
March 4th - March 11th, 2018 by Skip Jones
For many, a journey to Truk Lagoon is a dream come true. Overflowing with WWII history, it's the ultimate underwater treasure trove. Home to more than 60 sunken ships scattered across depths ranging from the surface to beyond 200 feet, Truk Lagoon serves as a somber reminder of the courage, sacrifices, and losses of those who perished during the war. The ships are submerged graveyards for the Japanese soldiers who met their fate onboard, and they now function as an underwater museum, displaying an unparalleled collection of explosives, detonators, mines, munitions, torpedoes, and shells that are still active. The ships also house all sorts of everyday items such as automobiles, tanks, airplanes, and personal belongings, offering a unique snapshot of life during that time. Remains of the crew members are still found on many of the ships, fostering a profound sense of empathy and awe for the tragic events of war.
Historical artifacts and remains
Haunting remnants of human life
Truk Lagoon (Chuuk) lies approximately an hour's flight from Guam and is served by United Airlines. The very same runway that was utilized during WWII remains in operation today. Flights from Los Angeles are routed through Hawaii, Guam, and then to Truk. The poor quality of the runway lights prevents planes from landing at night, causing no flights before or after darkness.
Day 1
We touched down at 10:30 a.m., where we were greeted warmly by the Odyssey team. It seemed as if they recognized everyone who'd be joining them for the week just by their face. Either every diver on the plane was there to explore the Lagoon, or this tight-knit crew was just that good at recognizing their guests! We were whisked away to the Blue Lagoon Resort to spend the afternoon relaxing and indulging in a delightful beachside meal. Our group consisted of nine individuals, eight of whom were on the same flight, so we naturally gravitated towards one another. We got to know a group of divers who had recently spent a week aboard the Odyssey and couldn't get enough of it. Since our group didn't fill the ship, we welcomed five more divers to join us. The Odyssey anchored in front of the Blue Lagoon resort, and we boarded at 5 p.m.
Following our cabin assignments, we were invited to dine in the upstairs dining room. The accommodations were spacious, with king-sized beds in most rooms, and ample room to move about.
Day 2
It was time to dive in! Our first two dives of the day took place on the Kiyosumi Maru, an armed transport merchant cruiser. The ship rests on its port side in 120 feet of water, with the starboard side shallow at just 40 feet. The ship contains a bicycle, large drums, airplane propellers, pots, pans, and human remains, along with a mast covered in soft coral and other growth. The lack of current in the lagoon and the shallow depths make the dive easy and comfortable.
Nautical oddities and human remains
After a scrumptious lunch, our afternoon destination was the Yamagiri Maru, a passenger and cargo ship converted into a military transport. The ship has massive holes mid-ship that mark its fatal injuries, with the exception of armor-piercing shells, the holds are empty. Some beer bottles and human remains are scattered around, with the ship sinking in 50-110 feet of water. Some divers decided to explore the ship during a night dive, dedicating their entire day to it.
A dilapidated shell of a ship
Day 3
The opportunity to dive the I-169 Sub surfaced during breakfast, as the Odyssey moved into position. This deep dive takes divers down to 120 feet, offering a heart-wrenching tale of the soldiers trapped inside for several days before their rescue was abandoned. The ship is home to several fluorescent anemones of unusual color.
Leaving the sub behind, we headed to the Shinkoku Maru, a favorite of all divers on the boat. The ship boasts an operating room, baths, toilets, and a wealth of personal effects. There are some lovely skylights in some spacious rooms with several floors of ladders and walkways resulting in a photogenic scene. We spent the remainder of the day there, with several divers deciding to dive at night on the shallow deck.
Glimpses of daily life onboard
Day 4
Breakfast was served daily at 6:30 a.m., with the first dive around 8:00. The Odyssey relocated to the Seiko Maru during breakfast. Although the cargo holds are empty, the ship held personal effects as well as china, bathtubs, and bunkrooms.
The Betty Bomber was the second dive, an airplane resting in 55 feet of water in remarkably good condition, apart from the nose of the plane which sustained severe damage. The two engines came off the plane and lay approximately 200 feet away from the plane.
Remnants of a fallen airplane
The rest of the day was spent at the Fujikawa Maru, one of the most iconic wrecks in Truk Lagoon. The Fujikawa contains the famous R2-D2 compressor, stunning engine rooms, a phone booth, and a plethora of artifacts.
Day 5
Day 5 offered three ships for divers to explore: Hoki Maru, with its cargo of bulldozers; Rio de Janeiro Maru, one of the lagoon's deepest wrecks filled with ammunition and beer bottles; and Sankisan Maru, with its collection of Izuza Trucks. These wrecks presented deeper dives, with cargo holds ranging from 100-140 feet deep.
A diverse collection of military vehicles
Day 6
Day 6 started with the Nippo Maru, a water carrier and cargo ship, which rests upright but displays a portside lean. This ship holds a large tank aboard, along with munitions, guns, and personal effects, boasting hundreds of beer bottles.
Following lunch, we ventured to the Heian Maru, a luxury passenger liner that had been transformed into a transport ship. Several fires burned intensely until the ship sunk, leaving evidence of molten glass demonstrating the extreme heat generated from the fires.
Haunting remains of fire and war
Day 7
Day 7 was reserved for an extraordinary diving experience: divers were given the choice to dive either the San Francisco Maru or the Kensho Maru. The San Francisco Maru, also known as the "Million Dollar Wreck," is one of the most spectacular wrecks in the Lagoon. The cargo consists of trucks, bombs, tanks, a steamroller, torpedoes, munitions, and more. Dives last only 15 minutes on the wreck, with the remaining time spent in decompression, but most divers found it well worth the dive.
The Kensho Maru offered telegraphs, binoculars, radio equipment, and a strong box on the bridge, along with beer bottles in the hold, with the wooden crates rotting away.
Mysteries and artifacts of the deep
The day ended at 3:30 p.m., when the Odyssey returned to its anchorage in front of the Blue Lagoon Resort. Passengers stayed aboard for the night, disembarking the following morning for their respective destinations.
Truk Lagoon catches the eye of photographers alike, offering a bewitching blend of historical wrecks and coral growth on the ships. Those who have captured the beauty of Truk Lagoon describe it as "hauntingly beautiful."
For a comprehensive exploration of Truk Lagoon's historic wrecks, the Truk Master liveaboard offers specialized itineraries tailored to the needs of wreck diving enthusiasts.
Book Your Unforgettable Dive Trip Today!
Ready to dive into history? Let the experts at Bluewater Travel organize your dream dive trip to Truk Lagoon, guaranteeing you the best prices around. Our experienced team knows the ins and outs of the diving, accommodations, and the best time to go. Contact us at [email protected] to book your next dive adventure!
Historical artifacts and remains discovered during dives* Unique blend of wreck diving and coral growth on the ships, described as 'hauntingly beautiful'* A comprehensive exploration of Truk Lagoon's historic wrecks can be found on the Truk Master liveaboard* Divers can book their unforgettable dive trip to Truk Lagoon through Bluewater Travel, ensuring the best prices and experienced organization for a dream dive adventure.
