Fur-tastic Fashion Trends: Going Gaga Over Grizzly in Paris
Approaching Unsettling Periods Marked by Abundance of Hair - Experiencing Challenging Periods: Explanation Provided
By Rowan McLaughlin- + - 5 Mins
You're feeling the texture of a fabric that's as rich and creamy as a batch of freshly baked caramels. Initially, it seems like real mink, but upon closer inspection, it's dry and brittle. The Valentino salesperson in the showroom reacts curtly when asked about the source of the fur: "Faux or real fur?", they bark, as if answering such a question is outrageous. "It's Shearling!" they exclaim, as if explaining the obvious.
The Paris Fashion Week's curtain has fallen, and despite the deluge of new trends that occurs every season, one is front and center this fall: fur. From Milan to Paris, models strutted the runway in thick fur coats, suggesting that we're in for a hairy time. While an esteemed label like Fendi continues to process mink and fox, others are exploring alternatives like fake fur or, like Valentino, shearlings—processed lamb or sheep fur from farm animals, sometimes infused with synthetic fibers. It can often pass as the real deal. In the era of furfar, shearlings offer a guilt-free alternative as animals aren't exclusively bred and murdered for their furs.
Fur or Faux: Fluff Matters
However, it's strange to see trendsetters donning thick grizzly coats in the warm spring days. They connote that wearing animal hides is back in fashion, a political statement in stark contrast to the fashion world's past. After all, the majority of major corporations and fashion brands forswore fur usage in recent years, and many countries imposed breeding bans. The US state of California even banned the manufacturing and selling of clothing made from mink, fox, et al. For a while, it seemed that fur was close to extinction in the fashion industry, and even sporting fake fur was a fashion faux pas.
But that mindset has dissipated.
German actress Hannah Herzsprung ("Four Minutes", "Babylon Berlin") echoed this sentiment when visiting the Chanel show on the final day of Paris Fashion Week. She remarked, "If I were to buy real fur, I'd never consider it.” In fact, Chanel was one of the few labels that eschewed fur spectacles, instead focusing on its 35-year-long collaboration with the late Karl Lagerfeld. Chanel's final show, orchestrated in the traditional fashion, may not have been revolutionary, but it did successfully convey the essence of its legacy. "Today, we showcased everything that defined Chanel," said Herzsprung after the show. It was a display of classic tweed adorned with delicate tulle, opulent pearls, and thick knitwear, as well as the predictable color palette of beige and stark contrasts of black and white. There were also plenty of bows and strips, some on sweaters and others in abundance on jackets. A large black ribbon adorned the backdrop at the Grand Palais, serving as a reflective tribute to its history.
Charlotte Casiraghi, daughter of Princess Caroline of Monaco, attended the show with a mixture of emotions. She reflected on her childhood when Chanel was an integral part of her life, evoking memories of "Fantasy Jewelry" boxes filled with fake stones she was allowed to play with as a child. As the new designer, Belgian Matthieu Blazy prepares to present his first collection for Chanel, she expressed hope for a continuation of Lagerfeld's legacy and Coco Chanel's philosophy. "There are too many troubles occurring in the world that remind us of the fragile state of women's rights. Strong women are crucial role models under such circumstances," said Casiraghi.
A New Feminine Fashion Statement
This sentiment resonated with designers across the Paris Fashion Week. As fur takes the lead this fall, other labels presented strong, feminine looks that weren't aggressive or overly provocative. The most peculiar was Duran Lantink's show. Lantink sent models down the runway in voluminous outfits, adding silicone bodies to some. Mica Arganaraz sashayed the runway wearing a fake male chest, while a male model donned bouncy breasts. "It's essential to embrace innovation and not be hindered by rules," Lantink shared with Vogue.
Chloé designer Chemena Kamali expressed a similar vision, drawing inspiration from the 1960s and 1970s. Her designs focused on blouses with dramatic shoulders. Stella McCartney also presented business suits for women, reminiscent of the '80s vibe, while the Prada and Miu Miu collections were striking. Instead of showcasing ultra-short skirts and midriff-baring tops, they featured ensembles that played with the ideal female image. Miuccia Prada was once again inspired by the 1950s and brought back the pointed bra, which many models sported on the runway. Her collection was amusing but also a reflection of the tumultuous times. "There's a sense of tension, fear, and anxiety today. This season, we strove to create elegance from simplicity through everyday life and direct processing of basic pieces," said the designer.
The reception at the end of the show was deafening, affirming that come fall, influencers and fashion-forward women will be donning Miu Miu attire, setting the trends on platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Unfortunately, Miuccia Prada's trademark accessory may be draped around their necks: shearlings fur stoles.
While animal rights activists once made their presence felt at countless fashion shows, they've been conspicuously quiet lately. Their voices and protests are now more necessary than ever: standing up for what's right remains the best accessory, despite the trends.
- Fur
- Paris Fashion Week
- Chanel
- Karl Lagerfeld
- Hannah Herzsprung
- Charlotte Casiraghi
- Designers
I'm not going to be a big fan of your new clothes if they include thick fur coats, especially during the warm spring days, as it seems that wearing animal hides is back in fashion. Despite the controversy surrounding fur in the fashion industry, German actress Hannah Herzsprung, who attended the Chanel show during Paris Fashion Week, expressed that she wouldn't consider buying real fur. Charlotte Casiraghi, who reflected on her childhood memories of Chanel, hoped for the continuation of Karl Lagerfeld's legacy and Coco Chanel's philosophy, but expressed concern about the recent resurgence of fur trend in the industry.
