Experience the Ascent of Mt. Whitney: A Challenging Hiking Expedition
The ascent of Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48 states, is a bucket list item for many hikers. At 14,505 feet, it's a rare high peak that can be climbed without mountaineering skills. However, there are some preparations necessary to ensure a successful and safe climb.
Choosing the Right Route
Before securing your Mt. Whitney permit, consider your chosen route. This guide focuses on the popular Mount Whitney Trail from Whitney Portal, which allows for a day hike or overnight camping trip. For first-timers, this route is highly recommended. There are other options available, each requiring specific permits.
Day Hike (Mount Whitney Trail)
Most hikers tackle Mt. Whitney as a 21.5-mile round-trip day hike. It might seem long, but with proper training, it's doable. Your chances of obtaining a permit for a day hike are usually the best. The sense of accomplishment from summiting in a day is extremely rewarding. Expect the hike to take between 12-16 hours, and plan on leaving before dawn. This adventure is well worth it, and it's highly suggested to tackle it this way, especially on your first try.
Overnight (2-Days)
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You don't have to conquer the 21.5 miles of the Mount Whitney Trail in a single day; you can also do the hike over two (or more) days and camp on the trail. Camping offers pros and cons. Big advantages include splitting the hike into smaller chunks, acclimatizing, and experiencing a beautiful night under the stars. However, permits for camping are often more difficult to acquire, and you'll have to haul a much heavier pack up the mountain. In some cases, a longer day hike with a lighter pack can be easier than carrying camping gear to Trail Camp.
Camping spots include:- Trail Camp (12,000 feet), 6 miles up the trail- Consultation Lake (near Trail Camp)- Outpost Camp (3.8 miles on the trail, 10,400 feet)- Lone Pine Lake (2.8 miles, 9,900 feet)
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Use established campsites, and protect the landscape by not creating a new one. All of these sites offer water and are first-come, first-serve. If camping at these spots, keep lightly active when you arrive at camp to help alleviate altitude sickness. Other tips for camping:- It can get very cold at night, so prepare accordingly.- Keep your food in a bear canister, and rent them at the ranger station or shops in Lone Pine.- Keep your gear secured against rain and high winds.- No wood fires are allowed.- Use a WAG bag for waste disposal (included with your permit fee or available at REI for a few bucks).
Keep your main gear at the campsite and do the summit with a smaller daypack. Make sure all your food and scented items (like toothpaste) are in the bear canister. Leave your backpack loosely packed and tent flaps open to discourage critters.
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Technical Approaches to Whitney Summit
There are over a dozen routes to the summit that involve mountaineering, the most popular of which is the Class 3 Mountaineers Route. This route requires climbing and mountaineering experience. Routes in the Sierra are graded according to the Yosemite Decimal System, with Class 1 being a hike and Class 5+ being a very technical climb. Stick to the Class 1 hikes, like the Mt. Whitney Trail, which can be done with hiking boots. Class 2 and above can require climbing experience and climbing gear. Permits are still necessary for the Mountaineers Route.
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After the snow melts, the Mountaineer's Route becomes basically a long hike followed by 1,500 feet of groveling up a steep, loose gully, and then another 500 feet of Class 3 scrambling. It's easy, right? Many people get into trouble on this route due to poor planning, inadequate gear, weather, inexperience, altitude, and bad judgment.
High Sierra Trail (HST)
Garmin Fenix 8 - Took a few updates to get right, but now it's rock solid for me. I use it for maps, tracking, and routing.
If you want a week-long backpacking trip, start in Sequoia National Park and do the High Sierra Trail. The hike is 72 miles and requires a shuttle back to the start from Whitney Portal if going one way. This high Sierras website gives a good overview of the hike, and HikingGeek has a very detailed guide that is great for logistics. There's also a good book/trail guide if you want to delve deeper.
John Muir Trail (JMT)
For an epic experience, consider hiking the John Muir Trail from Yosemite National Park to Mt. Whitney. It's 211 miles and will take about a month. SoCal hiker has great guides on the John Muir Trail.
Non-Traditional Longer Hikes
You're not required to follow a trail like the JMT or HST to get to the Mt. Whitney summit. You can also plan your own backpacking trip that includes Mt. Whitney. Maybe it will be on a section of the Pacific Crest Trail with a side trip to the summit, or maybe a point-to-point from Cottonwood Campground, the options are many. If it's your first time hiking in the region, it's recommended to take a traditional option before venturing off on your own.
Trailhead
How to Get a Mt. Whitney Permit
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The Mt. Whitney hike is popular, with 70,000 to 100,000 hikers applying between May and November for a slot to hike or backpack to the summit from Whitney Portal. The parks service enforces a quota system to regulate this high number of applicants. Only 100 day-hikers and 60 backpackers are allowed on the Mt. Whitney Trail from Whitney Portal per day, from May 1st to November 1st. These quota-controlled slots are awarded in a lottery. Securing a permit will be your first challenge, and it starts months before the hike.
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Hiking Mt. Whitney Without Winning the Permit Lottery
If you weren't successful in obtaining your permit, there are other ways you might be able to do the hike.
Lone Pine Lake Trail
- Check the recreation.gov website daily. Sometimes permits become available after the lottery period due to cancellations or unclaimed slots.
- Consider paying for a service that automatically checks for openings and notifies you when one becomes available.
- If you aren't going to use your permit, cancel it so that others may have a chance.
- Join a hiking group on Facebook or Reddit and let everyone know that you're looking for a group to hike with.There are no more walk-up permits during quota season. Everything must be done through the website now.
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Other Permit Options
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If you have the time, try a longer backpacking trip from Cottonwood Lakes or another close trailhead which doesn't require a special Mt. Whitney quota permit. Again, this option is best left for those with experience.
Lastly, you can hike Mt. Whitney in the winter (between November 2nd and April 30th). There is no quota, and you can simply walk up to the park office and get a permit. If you are not an experienced winter hiker and/or mountaineer, don't hike Whitney in the winter. spring conditions when the snow and ice are melting can be most treacherous. People die when there is snow and ice.
Outpost Camp
Other Considerations
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Training for the Hike
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Keep in mind that the Mt. Whitney hike is very doable but can also be challenging. Proper training and preparation can make all the difference between a miserable experience and an enjoyable one.
- Be prepared for the distance and effort. Improvise if you don't have mountainous climbs available.
- Work on your quads to prepare for the stairs on the trail.
- Do some other exercise regularly during the week, like biking, running, circuit weight training, or exercise classes.
- Consider HIIT training for an effective workout that doesn't take long.
Trail Camp
Gear for the Hike
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- Invest in a good headlamp.
- Plan for bad conditions at the summit, even if the forecast looks okay.
- Bring an emergency beacon and/or satellite communication device.
- Bring plenty of food and water.
- If there's snow on the trail, consider micro-spikes and trekking poles.
- Get a good paper map of Mt. Whitney and study it in the weeks before the hike.
- Take a lighter pack where possible, without sacrificing safety and health.
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Dealing with Altitude
AMS can occur in hikers when they go above 8,000 feet. Monitor yourself for symptoms, such as headache, nausea, loss of appetite, swelling, and lightheadedness. If symptoms intensify, descend immediately. To avoid AMS, consider spending time at lower elevations in the days leading up to your hike, and pace yourself during the ascent. Medications like Diamox and Ibuprofen can help with AMS symptoms.
Trail Crest
Weather and Timing
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Summit Mt. Whitney before noon to avoid thunderstorms, which usually bubble up after noon. If the weather is good, aim for a 3am start from Whitney Portal to get on and off the summit before noon. Let someone at home know your plan, and have them expect a call on the evening after your hike. Assume your hike will take longer than you think and that you might not have cell service at Whitney Portal.
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Safety Considerations
- Don't push through AMS symptoms. Stop climbing, take a break, and see if they subside. If they intensify, descend immediately.
- Carry an emergency beacon and/or satellite communication device.
- Don't attempt the Mountaineers Route without mountaineering experience.
- Leave food in your car at Whitney Portal, as bears are active in the area.
Summit
FAQs
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- Will a StairMaster help me train for the hike?It can't hurt and might help build some leg and cardio endurance.
- I can't get a permit, can I do the Mountaineers Route instead?No, you need a permit for the Mountaineers Route.
- I'm a hiker, can I do the Mountaineers Route?Leave it for those with mountaineering experience. If you want to try it, find a group to do it with first and train appropriately.
- Do I need a bear canister for a day hike?No, only if you're camping overnight. For day hikes, simply leave food in your locked car and use the bear boxes at the trailhead for any scented items.
- What is "Inyo" short for?"Inyo" is short for "Inyo County," named after Native American words meaning "dwelling place of the great spirit."
- Can I hire a guide to take me up Mt. Whitney?No, guides are not allowed. Instead, join a Facebook or Reddit hiking group and look for partners. You can also do an overnight camp at Trail Camp and hitch along with other hikers.
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- The Mount Whitney Trail from Whitney Portal is a popular route for hiking Mt. Whitney, suitable for both day hikes and overnight camping trips.
- A lighter daypack, such as the Osprey Hikelite 26, is recommended for the day hike, while a longer backpacking trip might require a heavier pack.
- Camping on the trail offers advantages like acclimatizing and experiencing a beautiful night under the stars, but permits for camping can be difficult to acquire.
- Camping spots on the trail include Trail Camp, Consultation Lake, Outpost Camp, and Lone Pine Lake, all offering water and situated at various elevations.
- It's essential to use established campsites and protect the landscape by not creating a new one. Hikers should also be prepared for cold nights, keep food in bear canisters, secure gear against rain and high winds, and use WAG bags for waste disposal.
- After the snow melts, the Mountaineer's Route becomes a long hike followed by steep, loose gully climbing and scrambling, requiring proper preparation, gear, weather awareness, and climbing experience.
- For a week-long backpacking trip, the High Sierra Trail offers a 72-mile hike starting in Sequoia National Park and ending at Whitney Portal.
- The John Muir Trail from Yosemite National Park to Mt. Whitney is a 211-mile epic experience, taking about a month to complete.