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Experience of women conquering massive waves: 'I've brushed with death countless times'

In the face of a colossal wave towering over her by a factor of ten, experienced surfer Laura Crane encounters the initial emotion of fear before plummeting down a 60-foot giant.

Gale-force surfers braving 50-foot waves: "I've cheated death numerous times"
Gale-force surfers braving 50-foot waves: "I've cheated death numerous times"

Experience of women conquering massive waves: 'I've brushed with death countless times'

Riding the unforgiving face of a monstrous 60-foot wave is no place for weak hearts, but for big wave surfer Laura Crane, it's where she finds her courage. With her heart pumping and adrenaline surging, Crane masters her FEAR, utilizing it as a catalyst for taking on the colossal landscapes of water before her.

Speaking to CNN Sports, Crane explained, "From the moment you let go of that rope and you see this mountain of water starting to grow behind you, there are instant feelings of fear that are, of course, like a bodily reaction. But I see fear as more of a catalyst for the fact that something amazing is about to happen and excites me - it prepares me to take on what I'm about to take on."

Imbued with speeds of up to 100 kph (around 62 mph), these formidable waves can only be tamed by the most daring of souls. And when a surfer wipes out, the impact is akin to hitting a car - something the industry's jetski drivers are always standing by to prevent.

Crane is one of a rare handful of women who've faced the formidable challenge of swirling waters at Nazaré, a Portuguese fishing village notorious for its 100-foot giants that have already claimed the lives of surfers like Mark Foo and Todd Chesser. The brutal conditions can lead to broken bones, concussions, and spinal damage.

But Crane's fearlessness is unwavering. She leans into the danger, her determination serving as the driving force behind her accomplishments in the extreme sport.

In the world of big wave surfing, women have long fought for equal footing against their male counterparts, facing barriers often insurmountable even in this exceedingly dangerous realm. For decades, women were denied entry into prestigious competitions, and sponsorship opportunities were sparse.

It wasn't until 2016 that women were finally allowed to compete in the World Surf League's big wave competition, following years of debate between surfers and organizers who argued the competitions were too perilous for women. The tides began to turn, however, when the WSL announced in 2018 that they'd offer equal prize money to male and female athletes, becoming the first U.S.-based global sports league to do so.

Still, many obstacles persist. In big wave competitions, men continue to receive more spots than women, based on competition qualification rules. CNN has reached out to the WSL for more information about competition requirements and stipulations.

In her teenage years, Crane shared her passion for surfing with a career adviser, who scoffed at her dreams. But Crane refused to let the industry's stifling attitudes deter her, regrouping and eventually earning her way back into the lineup, where she could compete on equal terms.

"It takes a lot of guts to get out there on the biggest days," Crane said. "I do believe that, on a big day, everyone is equal because if you're out there, you do have the respect of the men."

Women's big wave surfing has witnessed a remarkable resurgence in the last decade, but obstacles remain, particularly in terms of equal funding for film projects focusing on women in the sport. "It's a birthright for men to do these dangerous things and to break barriers," said filmmaker Sachi Cunningham. "But for women, it's only recently that that's even been presented as a possibility."

"Big wave surfing is just a little microcosm of all halls of power," Cunningham continued. "And until we're equal in all of those arenas, there's work to be done."

But Crane, an exemplar of the sport's growing women's community, remains undeterred. "We're out there on the biggest days, like the boys, we're training just as hard as them, we should get that same opportunity," she told CNN.

In an industry still wedded to a conservative ethos, change may be slow, but the progress made by women like Crane offer a flicker of hope for what's to come. As Crane herself so succinctly puts it, "We're on the move baby, and we're here to stay."

Sport serves as a platform for Laura Crane's fearlessness, as she bravely takes on the challenges of big wave surfing. Despite the obstacles and lack of equal opportunities in the sport, women like Crane continue to push boundaries and excel in this extreme sport, demonstrating that they belong in the world of sports just as much as their male counterparts.

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