Evaluation of Arc'teryx Alpha AR Outer Layer Jacket
Introducing the 2024 Arc'teryx Alpha Jacket: Enhanced Durability, Sustainability, and Lightweight Design
The latest iteration of the Arc'teryx Alpha Jacket, a staple for alpine mountaineering, climbing, and skiing, has undergone significant improvements for the 2024 model. The focus is on sustainability, durability, and weight reduction, making it an even more formidable choice for extreme mountain conditions.
The new Gore-Tex PRO ePE membrane is PFAS-free, eliminating harmful "forever chemicals" and making the jacket more environmentally friendly. The membrane is also lighter and more durable than the legacy Gore-Tex PRO, offering elite waterproof protection while lowering the jacket’s weight. Additionally, the use of higher-denier nylon face fabrics enhances abrasion resistance, improving durability without adding weight.
Key features and improvements include:
- PFAS-Free Construction: Both the waterproof membrane and durable water repellent (DWR) coatings are now 100% PFAS-free, addressing environmental and health concerns associated with these chemicals.
- Gore-Tex PRO ePE Membrane: A next-generation membrane that is lighter and more durable than the legacy Gore-Tex PRO. It offers elite waterproof protection while lowering the jacket’s weight.
- Use of Higher-Denier Face Fabrics: The jacket integrates tougher nylon fabrics (higher denier) that improve abrasion resistance, enhancing durability for extreme alpine use without adding weight.
- Technical Design for Alpine Conditions: The Alpha Jacket remains a top choice for alpine mountaineering, climbing, and skiing, with features such as taped seams for weatherproofness, a helmet-compatible hood, and a fit optimized for layering and mobility.
The Arc'teryx Alpha Jacket is a lightweight piece of equipment, with a weight of approximately 12 ounces for the women's model. Its Arc'teryx proprietary Nu water-repellent coating wetted out fairly quickly in sustained moisture, leading to some clamminess, although baselayers stayed dry underneath.
The jacket features a StormHood design, considered the most well-executed on the market, offering full coverage, adjustability, and helmet compatibility. The chest pockets are very large, with one internal zippered pocket just barely fitting a plus-sized iPhone 11. The jacket is helmet-compatible and easily slides over a low-profile climbing helmet or bulkier ski lid.
The Alpha AR Jacket's storage is perfectly adequate with the two very large chest pockets and one internal zippered pocket. The jacket's length falls a few inches below the waist (center back length is listed at 27.2 in.). It also has dual hem adjusters for evenly dialing in fit and sealing out drafts.
Despite being on the thinner end for an alpine shell at 40D, the jacket is noticeably hardwearing and robust. It withstands multiple backpacking trips under the weight of a full pack and frequent storage in a duffel bag.
The jacket offers excellent weather protection, withstanding harsh weather conditions and keeping the wearer dry and comfortable. However, the lack of hand pockets can make it difficult to warm hands during daily use, and the chest pockets make it tough to warm cold hands.
The Alpha AR Jacket is priced at nearly $600, making it a significant investment. Despite this, its blend of environmental responsibility, technical excellence, and enhanced durability and protection make it a worthy choice for demanding mountain environments.
[1] Arc'teryx (2024). Alpha AR Jacket. [Online]. Available: https://www.arcteryx.com/us/en/shop/mens/alpha-ar-jacket
[2] OutdoorGearLab (2023). Best Alpine Climbing Jackets. [Online]. Available: https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/alpine-climbing-jackets
[3] Backcountry (2023). Arc'teryx Alpha AR Jacket Review. [Online]. Available: https://www.backcountry.com/arcteryx-alpha-ar-jacket-mens
- For the avid backpacker, the new Arc'teryx Alpha AR Jacket, ideal for alpine mountaineering, is perfect for the next outdoor adventure, as it boasts enhanced durability and is designed to withstand extreme conditions.
- During sports such as skiing and hiking, the jacket's StormHood design offers full coverage, adjustability, and compatibility with helmets, ensuring optimal protection on snowy slopes and mountain trails.
- As a socially responsible choice in outdoor gear, the Arc'teryx Alpha AR Jacket features PFAS-free waterproof membrane and durable water repellent coatings, ensuring a commitment to sustainability and reduced environmental impact.
