Alte Westwand – Höllental (A Climbing Classic in Bavaria)
Route Overview
- Location: West Face of the Wilder Kaiser, near Kufstein, Bavaria, Germany (Höllental area)
- Difficulty: Typically graded around UIAA V+ (moderate difficulty for experienced alpinists)
- Type: Multi-pitch trad climbing route
- Length: Approximately 5–6 pitches; total climb is around 120 meters
- Rock Type: Limestone
- Protection: Natural gear (nuts, cams) – bolts are rare or absent
- Style: Alpine trad, often combined with mountain approach and descent
Route Description (General Outline)
- Approach:
- Begin the hike in the Höllental valley, navigating to the base of the wall.
- Climbing:
- Pitch 1: Commence with an initial straightforward climb, though parts may be slightly loose.
- Pitch 2: Prepare yourself for the early crux—technical moves on solid limestone, though some may find it polished.
- Pitch 3–5: Continue your ascent up the face, tackling sustained moderate climbing.
- Pitch 6: Summit or reach the ridge on the final pitch.
- Descent: Descend via rappel or walking off the ridge, using traditional methods for the descent.
Easy climb in Hoellental's Hell Wall: Alte Westwand offers remarkable views
The approach can be rugged, with potential difficulties in wayfinding, so be prepared with a good map or guidebook.
Climbing Tips
- Gear: Equip yourself with a standard Alpine trad rack, including a full set of nuts, cams (up to #2 Camalot), slings, and a few alpine draws.
- Conditions: Best climbed in late spring to early autumn, with an eye on avoiding wet rock after rain.
- Experience: A solid background in multi-pitch trad climbing and route-finding is essential.
- Guidebook: The “Kletterführer Wilder Kaiser” (Wilder Kaiser Climbing Guide) is highly recommended.
- Start Early: Commence your climb early to beat the crowds and avoid afternoon thunderstorms.
- Partners: Ascend with experienced partners; this is a typical Alpine experience that entails some objective hazards.
Other "Alte Westwand" Routes
Numerous other crags house routes named "Alte Westwand." For each variation, be sure to examine:- Location and guidebook details- Route grading and length- Type of protection- Descent options
If you have a specific Alte Westwand in mind (such as in a different region or country), shoot me a question, and I'll provide more targeted information!
Summary Table
| Feature | Details ||-----------------------|-----------------------------------|| Location | Wilder Kaiser, Bavaria (classic) || Difficulty | UIAA V+ (varies) || Height | ~120 meters || Pitches | 5–6 || Protection | Trad || Best Season | Late spring–early autumn |
This Alpine trad climb, located on the West Face of the Wilder Kaiser in the Höllental area of Bavaria, offers a challenging and rewarding experience for experienced climbers. The route, featuring solid limestone, includes a series of artistic pitches with moderate difficulty, making it a must-do for those seeking a classic multi-pitch trad climb. To ensure a successful ascent, it's recommended to start early, have a solid background in multi-pitch trad climbing and route-finding, and climb in the late spring to early autumn season, avoiding wet rock after rain. If you're interested in exploring alternative "Alte Westwand" routes, be sure to examine location, grading, protection, and descent options to tailor your adventure.
