Discussion with Costume Designer Rafaella Rabinovich Regarding The Imperfects' Attire
In the toxic, unrestricted world of September 2022, the streaming platform known as Netflix delivered a fresh take on the sci-fi genre with the new series titled The Imperfects. This show centers around three outcasts who have endured horrific scientific experiments and join forces in a quest to find those responsible for their traumatic ordeals.
Costume designer extraordinaire, Rafaella Rabinovich, was the mastermind behind the stylish costumes seen on The Imperfects. She hopped on The Art of Costume to chat about her innovative designs for this groundbreaking science-fiction series!
EJG ("Elizabeth Joy Glass", ya filthy animal!): The Imperfects brings a lively burst of color and novelty to the sci-fi realm. Through the wardrobe, what kind of story were you trying to tell, and what vibe were you aiming for?**
RR ("Rafaella Rabinovich", you cheeky bugger!): I aimed to augment reality with an intriguing twist, keeping it accessible and visually pleasing, without stealing the spotlight. At the end of the day, character transformation through clothing is crucial in showcasing the narrative in a way that resonates with viewers at home. Clothing serves both the production and the audience, with fashion taking a backseat and storytelling taking center stage. Color choices and various costume elements communicate the unfolding narrative, providing insight into the story through clothing. Playing with layers, textures, patterns, and colors became a fun challenge, considering their movement and transformation throughout the episodes.
EJG: Tilda's unique punk rock look evolves as the season progresses. What inspired you for Tilda, and what effort went into building her wardrobe?
RR: Iconic punk rock goddesses throughout the years provided inspiration for Tilda, including heavy hitters like Brody Dalle, Cherie Currie, and Joan Jett, to name a few. Additionally, I was inspired by Shanay and the Banshees (no pun intended), The Slits, L7, Debbie Harry, Stevie Nicks, and Iggy Pop. Accounting for Led Zeppelin, The Velvet Underground, Ramones, David Bowie, Freddie Mercury, street fashion from around the globe, incredible designers like Betsey Johnson and Vivienne Westwood, and icons such as Tilda Swinton and Kate Moss, Tilda's wardrobe underwent intense labor. This included creating handmade jewelry, custom corsets and belts, using chains, and adding personalized patches. Materials were sourced, dyed, aged, custom-printed, reworked, and even shoes and jackets were built to represent Tilda's armor in this world. I aimed to have an ongoing balance between androgynous pieces and hyper-feminine, bold choices, reflecting her self-determining choices throughout the season.
RR: One of my favorite Tilda ensembles is her lavender jacket, which we spent two and a half weeks crafting. We added individual studs sourced from the UK to achieve the perfect pattern and edge, with added weights for optimal fall on her shoulders. Other notable looks include her two concert ensembles, offering a glimpse into Tilda's personality, both on and off the stage. Unapologetic, different-–unabashedly so. The vintage shirt from Germany I've held onto for almost two decades found its way onto Tilda in a poignant scene, complemented by a lotus flower necklace representing rebirth. Another go-to piece is a patchwork jacket embellished with tattoos from the director's shop in Toronto, artwork from a friend's band, and personal collaborations from high school.
EJG: Abbi's wardrobe is eclectic, yet it grows and changes with her throughout the season. What narrative did you intend to convey through Abbi's costumes?
RR: Abbi's wardrobe speaks volumes about her embracing her power while expressing herself boldly, even as she grows more comfortable within her own skin. Abbi's bold wardrobe choices introduced geometry-inspired colors, like those found in the works of Piet Mondrian, with red symbolizing seduction. The bee sweater and bee collar pins from episode 5 symbolize her pheromones, with a nod to Hannah's hero locket. Saint Albert's medallion, the Patron of scientists, philosophers, medical technicians, and natural sciences, was a recurring accessory for Abbi.
RR: Abbi's gray sweater from episodes 6 and 7 featured a rainbow-themed button, symbolizing the rainbow flag worn on her arm. Her heart-patterned tights beneath her sweater showed that she wears her heart on her sleeve. Collar pins bearing "science" and snakes adorned her collar in episode 9, with heart-patterned shorts, symbolizing the forbidden fruit. Abbi's burndown collar shirt from the interview in episode 1, inspired by Piet Mondrian, represents her intellectual side, and her asexuality played a crucial role in her wardrobe growth. The lavender sweater from earlier in the first episode had echoes with the texture found on Hannah's pink cardigan in a critical moment in their relationship. Abbi's wardrobe serves as a wonderful demonstration of how one can be both preppy and enchantingly intriguing simultaneously.
EJG: Sarkov certainly doesn't fit the mold of the typical scientist. What served as inspiration for Sarkov's rogue scientist wardrobe?
RR: Rhys Nicholson lends an inimitable charm to his character, making it unfathomable to mold him into anything but what he is. Our main objective was to celebrate his idiosyncrasies and give him a timeless silhouette and style while subtly setting him apart from the crowd. We also strived to break away from the clichéd scientist wardrobe, opting instead for a breath of fresh air and a more diverse representation.
EJG: Another scientist who doesn't epitomize the stereotypical scientist image is Dr. Sydney Burke, whose dual personality of Isabel Finch generates distinct looks for these two characters. What was it like designing for two different actresses and characters who, in part, are the same person?
RR: It was a blast working with actresses like Italia Ricci and Kyra Zagorsky, who each brought their unique takes on their characters, allowing for a seamless transition between Burke and Finch. Both ladies fully grasped their characters' personalities and how they evolve, providing invaluable insight in the collaboration process. Small details, like pinstripes in Finch's wardrobe that take a more prominent role in Burke's as she develops, mirror the development of both characters.
EJG: Juan's attire is more utilitarian, but it reflects his creative nature. What motivated your approach to Juan's style?
RR: Juan's wardrobe was inspired by university and streetwear, as well as a certain laid-back, passionate guy we all know from our lives. Juan's wardrobe says, "I'm always up to something, and I'm the cool guy you want to hang with." Practicality was crucial in designing Juan's wardrobe, but I also wanted to give him room to grow. Intricate art pieces influenced by Juan's work appeared on various shirts, conveying his budding maturity, particularly concerning his relationship with his brother and family.
EJG: The special effects team played a significant role in the show, particularly for Juan's character. How was your collaboration with them like?
RR: Collaborating with the special effects team was an enjoyable experience, as they invested tremendous effort to meet the show's requirements. We maintained open communication to ensure they had visibility into what our actors would be wearing, and they were always mindful of adjustments that may be necessary.
EJG: Along with special effects, stunts also took center stage in the show. How did you prepare the costumes for stunt performances?
RR: Given the female-dominated stunt performances, we faced new challenges in accommodating their specific needs. Fortunately, our expertise stunt performers were open to adapting the clothing when padding was required, resulting in minimal alterations for our main cast.
EJG: Throughout the series, we meet other participants who were part of Sarkov's trials, each with their one-of-a-kind look. What aesthetic did you aim for with these characters?
RR: Focusing on versatility and uniqueness painted the approach for these characters, maintaining consistency with the overall aesthetic of the show.
In conclusion, the most gratifying part of working on The Imperfects was collaborating with a passionate team dedicated to bringing something fresh to viewers while amplifying diverse perspectives. The creative freedom I enjoyed throughout the process allowed me to leave my indelible mark on this unique world.
Costume designer Rafaella Rabinovich spoke about her innovative costume designs for the science-fiction series "The Imperfects", saying, "I aimed to augment reality with an intriguing twist, keeping it accessible and visually pleasing, without stealing the spotlight." She also discussed Tilda's unique punk rock style, "Iconic punk rock goddesses throughout the years provided inspiration for Tilda, including Brody Dalle, Cherie Currie, and Joan Jett." In the movies-and-tv and entertainment realms, costume design plays a crucial role in storytelling and character development, as demonstrated by Rabinovich's work on "The Imperfects".
