Discussion Surrounds Michael Rider's Highly Anticipated Spring 2026 Fashion Line Launch for Celine
Michael Rider, the American designer appointed as the artistic director of LVMH-owned Celine in October 2024, has unveiled his Spring 2026 collection, marking a significant departure yet continuation of the brand's heritage.
Presented in an abandoned Parisian hôtel particulier, the collection showcased fluid silhouettes that played with shadow and light, opacity and transparency, and a confident restraint. Key looks included a sleeveless stone-colored coat with raw edges, semi-sheer blouses, tailored shorts, architectural black halter dresses, slouchy trench coats, and a muted palette accented by soft lemon and blush pinks. Accessories were sparse but purposeful, such as oversized envelope clutches and wire-thin silver chokers, with natural, undone beauty styling.
Rider's background in Latin American studies and education, before transitioning into fashion via early internships and nearly a decade as Phoebe Philo's design director at Celine, informs this approach. His work blends heritage reverence with modern pragmatism and narrative, aiming for longevity in clothing—garments that carry memory and evolve with the wearer over time, prioritizing garments that endure rather than fleeting trends.
The Spring 2026 collection nods to the Philo era through allusions like scarves and nipped-in tailoring reminiscent of that time, particularly longer jackets extending to the upper thigh. However, Rider simultaneously incorporates elements from Hedi Slimane's tenure, such as circulation-defying skinny jeans, blending both legacies. This fusion crafts a new design vocabulary that honors Celine’s past while moving forward, balancing preppy playfulness with a timeless sensibility rooted in the house’s identity.
The internet has been ablaze with buzz and excitement about the collection. The show featured a return of Philo-era elements like the Phantom bag and relaxed tailoring. Layering is effortlessly cool, taking cues from the catwalk. Belts are officially back and should be worn in multiples or laden with chic charms. Chunky necklaces and bracelets should be piled on to the extreme.
The VIP-filled front row at the show included Naomi Watts, Dan Levy, Alanis Morrissette, Raf Simons, and Jonathan Anderson. The show suggested a potential return to the much-missed Philo-era glory days of the brand. The show marked the beginning of a new era for Celine under the creative direction of Michael Rider.
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