Unearthed: The Labor Force in California's Wine Industry
Discussion: Elaine Chukan Brown Explores California's Wine Scene in New Book Release
The California wine industry, with its roots tracing back to the 18th century, has been a dynamic and evolving landscape. A new book, The Wines of California by Elaine Chukan Brown, sheds light on the often overlooked workers who have played a crucial role in this industry's growth and transformation.
Post-Prohibition and Organized Labor
Following Prohibition (1920-1933), the wine industry expanded significantly, focusing on varieties with tough skins for transportation. However, labor issues began to surface in the post-Prohibition era. The United Farm Workers (UFW), led by César Chávez and Dolores Huerta, organised farmworkers, including those in the wine industry, to improve working conditions and wages. Notable actions included the grape boycott in 1968, aimed at securing better conditions for grape pickers.
Evolution Through the Late 20th Century
By the late 1960s through the 1980s, Napa Valley was evolving into a premium wine region, thanks in part to significant improvements in wine quality. However, this growth did not necessarily translate into better working conditions or job security for laborers.
Challenges and Dismissals in Modern Times
In recent years, the California wine industry has faced significant market pressures. Economic downturns and changes in consumer preferences have led to layoffs and restructuring. The industry's labor force is often subject to dismissals due to economic challenges, seasonal work, and economic efficiency.
The Impact of Crises
The 2008 financial crisis and the COVID-19 crisis have shaped the direction of California wine, pushing it to be more innovative and responsive to shifts in consumer habits. These crises have created a space for new approaches in the California wine industry.
The Wines of California
The Wines of California is less of a traditional reference book and more of a meditation on place, through its people, purpose, and possibility. The book provides a historical context and political awareness to the California wine industry, offering a comprehensive perspective on the state's wine industry, focusing on both its geography and human terrain.
Elaine Chukan Brown, a writer, speaker, critic, and advocate for diversity and inclusion initiatives in wine, spent several years in California paying attention to the people who've kept the engine of the wine industry running. The book is designed to cater to two audiences: those who have been part of wine for a long time and those new to the industry.
California's unique experimentation with over 130 varieties planted commercially, such as Albariño, Carignan, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and Cabernet, is a prime example of the state's innovative spirit. This spirit is also evident in California's willingness to do things that aren't supposed to work, giving the state's wine identity a fresh verve that is still evolving and difficult to pin down.
The agricultural industry in California has historically lobbied to maintain low-wage labour, leading to underappreciation of farm labourers. However, the hard weather years following the 2008 financial crisis forced a shift in wine style to lighter and more restrained. The US has consistently created labour crises in agriculture, including the wine industry, by excluding immigrants and triggering labour shortages.
The French Paradox, aired on 60 Minutes in the 1980s, shifted the narrative around wine and gave it a considerable boost. The book, The Wines of California, is a testament to the hardworking individuals who have contributed to the success of the California wine industry, ensuring their stories are not overlooked.
Books such as "The Wines of California" offer entertainment and insight, delving into the history and human terrain of California's wine industry, celebrating the unsung heroes of the labor force who have contributed significantly to its growth and transformation.
In the post-Prohibition era, entertainment like the grape boycott led by the United Farm Workers (UFW) brought attention to labor issues and the need for improved working conditions and wages for those in the wine industry.
