Dior's New Feminist Heroine: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Back in the day, Carmel Snow, editor of Harper's Bazaar, proclaimed, "What a revolution, dear Christ! Your clothing has a whole new look!" when she saw Christ Dior's voluminous skirts and tailored hips. This statement marked the birth of a concept that would shape Dior's identity.
Despite having a tenure of just ten years, Dior left an indelible mark on the modern fashion world.
Now, seventy years later, a new artistic director stands at the helm of Dior's fashion empire.
Enter Maria Grazia Chiuri, the First Lady of Dior
Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is the first female artistic director to lead the renowned French fashion house. Before taking the reins in July 2016, Chiuri was part of a successful design duo at Valentino and collaborated with Pier Paolo Piccoli.
"At Dior, I discovered a whole new world and had to learn lots because it has a great tradition and a rich legacy," Chiuri explained to CNN Style Today in Paris. "At Valentino, I worked there for 17 years and collaborated with the founders. Dior is a different story."
Embracing Dior's Heritage, While Forging Her Own Path
Rather than focusing solely on Christian Dior's legacy, Chiuri decided to honor Dior's entire creative canon in her vision for the house.
"I decided that perhaps part of my job is to act as a curator, because it's not just about Monsieur Dior. It's also about Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, John Galliano, Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane..." Chiuri mused.
Stirring the Pot with Feminist Fashion
In her debut show in September 2016, Chiuri made her intentions clear. The simple white T-shirt bearing the slogan "We Should All Be Feminists" was borrowed from a book by Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichi.
"I think feminism ultimately boils down to equal opportunities. I have a daughter and a son. I want them to have the same opportunities in life ... When people talk about feminism, it's about that and nothing else," Chiuri explained.
Sticking to the Basics
The latest Dior campaign stars Jennifer Lawrence and was photographed in black and white by French photographer Brigitte Lacombe. The images convey a natural, understated aesthetic - a stark contrast to the glamorous world of Haute Couture that many associate with the collection.
It seems that Chiuri's philosophy about the role of clothing in our lives is reflected in this choice: "Regarding the idea, it's about uniforms. You can choose your personal uniform ... It's about equality. You can choose what fits you, because you can wear your uniform to protect yourself."
The continuance of Christian Dior's legacy is evident in Maria Grazia Chiuri's designs, which incorporate feminist values while staying faithful to Dior's aesthetic principles. In doing so, she has breathed new life into the label and transformed it into a platform for promoting feminist ideals and celebrating women's empowerment in the modern world.
Incorporating Feminist Elements
- Feminist Mantras and Philosophies:
- Chiuri's debut collection for spring-summer 2017 featured a T-shirt emblazoned with "We Should All Be Feminists," inspired by an essay by Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.
- Power to the Women:
- Chiuri's designs often celebrate contemporary femininity and strength. Her collection for fall-winter 2022 features bespoke leather coats, bold millennial pink dresses, and 90s-inspired kitten heels that embody the spirit of empowerment.
- Collaborations with Female Artists:
- Chiuri has collaborated with female artists for the Lady Dior Art Project, which highlights the contributions of women in the arts. This collaboration further underscores her commitment to feminist values and the empowerment of women.
- Merging Fashion and Feminism:
- Her aesthetic is defined by feminist influences, with references to women artists, writers, and activists. For example, the Dior Book Tote, introduced in 2018, features a canvas design by British artist Richard Prince, with text from the inscribed Margaret Atwood novel 'The Handmaid's Tale.'
- Reimagining Dior's Iconic Silhouettes:
- Chiuri reinterprets Dior's timeless codes, such as the New Look silhouettes and the Bar jacket, in a way that is both elegant and empowering. For instance, her 2017 pre-fall collection showcased suits for women that fused sophistication with modernity.
- Embroidered Details:
- The Dway slide, for example, features a black upper embroidered with the white Miss Dior Graffiti signature, which is a nod to the 1967 debut ready-to-wear collection and a manifesto to Chiuri's signature celebration of feminism.
By weaving these elements into her designs, Maria Grazia Chiuri has transformed Dior into a platform that celebrates fashion while promoting feminist values and the empowerment of women in the modern era.
