Exploring the Frontiers of Fashion with Iris van Herpen
While Iris van Herpen may not be a household name yet, her followers transcend cultural boundaries. Artists like Björk and singers such as Beyoncé have sought her design skills, notably for Beyoncé's "Renaissance" collection show. In 2021, singer Grimes attended the Met Gala with a laser-cut Van Herpen dress, a masterpiece crafted after a laborious 900-hour process. Van Herpen's designs would capture the attention of many celebrities once again during the 2022 Met Gala's "Gilded Age," with the likes of Winnie Harlow, Teyana Taylor, and Dove Cameron honoring her creations.
The enchanting Helix Nebula-inspired set that Dove Cameron wore in 2022 took more than 600 hours to create, consisting of recycled Mylar, a reflective, shimmering plastic material. Cameron marveled at the surprising appearance, calling it "a spinal cord" and appreciating the complexity and details.
Despite the "In America: Dictionary of Fashion" Met Gala taking place, more than a hundred of Iris van Herpen's works are exhibited with the title "Sculpting the Senses" at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. With regular themes of water, the human skeleton, and the natural world, Van Herpen's designs often draw inspiration directly from mother nature.
"I knew it was more than just a fashion show," she said in an interview with CNN. "I hope this Retrospective represents all aspects that have inspired me: dance, art, science, architecture, nature, philosophy."
The greenhouse-like setting of her exhibitions and other works often reminds viewers of the power of nature and the relationship between art, science, and a harmonious world.
While she started her career as an intern at Alexander McQueen, Iris van Herpen established her eponymous label in 2007 at the age of 23. Her innovative approach to utilizing advanced materials has revolutionized the fashion industry, combining digital technologies with handiwork traditions.
Van Herpen presented the first 3D-printed dress to the world at the Amsterdam Fashion Week in 2010, a game-changing development recognized by Forbes just a decade later. In 2011, she showcased a 3D-printed Skeleton gown at the Paris Haute Couture Week, which attracted the attention of Time Magazine and eventually found its place in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection.
"The fusion of contemporary technology with traditional craftsmanship and esoteric knowledge breathes new life into the classical vision of couture," van Herpen said, "This evolution of craftsmanship, I call 'craftsmanship solutions.' It pushes Haute Couture into the future."
Avoiding mainstream fashion trends, Iris van Herpen prefers to push the boundaries with provocative, experimental, and instantly recognizable designs. Her work has gained recognition from fellow artists and critics alike for its boldness and capacity to challenge conventional norms.
Molly S.J. Lowe, a photographer who worked with her and whose images appear in a book accompanying the exhibition, shared her impression: "It's not just beautiful, it's a challenge. She goes beyond the boundaries every time. It's delicate, yet strong."
"She manages to bring these contradictions together and incorporates them into her designs."
Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses is on display at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris until 28 April 2024.
