Crafting the Night: Insights from Costume Designers Kurt and Bart on the 'The Crow' Ensembles
In the lead-up to the release of the upcoming film directed by Rupert Sanders, costume designers Kurt and Bart have provided a detailed look into their creative process for the reimagining of James O'Barr's original graphic novel, The Crow. The pair discusses the iconic coat worn by Eric, portrayed by Bill Skarsgård, which serves as a focal point, with hidden details like its inside-out construction symbolizing Eric's emotional journey.
The designers also delve into the careful use of color and explore the intricate costumes of Shelly, played by FKA Twigs. Twigs' fashion influence brings a unique dynamic to the character, and the costume designers highlight this aspect in their interview. Throughout the discussion, Kurt and Bart emphasize the importance of creating a richly immersive world on screen and managing the intricate costume breakdowns necessary for the film's intense action sequences.
In discussing their collaboration with Sanders, both designers note his unique vision for the film and how his specific taste influenced their work. Kurt and Bart reveal the challenges and rewards of bringing the The Crow costumes to life, balancing iconic elements with a fresh interpretation that honors the dark, emotional core of the story.
Question: What was it like working with director Rupert Sanders on this film? How did his vision influence your costumes?
Kurt: We have a strong working relationship with Rupert, based on trust and clear communication. He has a refined taste and a keen understanding of costume, which was essential in achieving the desired look for the film. We were excited to help him reimagine the classic story of The Crow.
Bart: Rupert has a distinct vision for his films, and we worked closely together to refine the look throughout the entire process. His vision for the film allowed the design to evolve and mature over time, making it a truly exciting experience.
Question: The Crow is a reimagining of James O'Barr's original graphic novel. How did you bring your point of view to the costumes, and were there specific elements or costumes that you felt were important to reference or reinvent in this new film?
Kurt: The coat emerged as the most important element for us, as it is such an iconic piece. We wanted it to be both dynamic and symbolic, capturing the complex emotions of the character. The inside-out construction reflects Eric's journey, emphasizing the contrast between his sensitive nature and the darkness he experiences.
Question: One thing that I LOVED about this film was that the use of color felt very intentional. Can you discuss your approach to color in this film and what you aimed to convey through your choices?
Kurt: The progression of colors from the softer, more subdued hues to the darker, bloodier palette reflects Eric's emotional journey. The lighter colors reflect his sensitivity and serve as a poignant reminder of Shelly, his lost love. The dominant darker shades signify the emotional turmoil and tragedy that Eric experiences as he grapples with vengeance.
Question: The pink uniforms at the rehab facility were a striking choice. It felt like they added to the fantasy romance between Eric and Shelly. Can you discuss the inspiration behind this design?
Bart: We initially wanted the rehab facility to feel energetic and hopeful, while still maintaining an eerie, dreamlike quality. The washed-out rosy pink color was intended to be both comforting and disconcerting, enhancing the fantasy romance aspect of the film.
Question: Bill Skarsgård's portrayal of Eric is intense and complex. How did you approach designing his costumes to reflect his character's journey and emotions?
Kurt: Eric's journey from sensitivity to fury required costumes that conveyed both his emotional vulnerability and his transformation into an action-focused antihero. We looked to punk, goth, and alternative subcultures for inspiration, aiming to create a unique style that represented Eric's outsider status and internal struggle.
Question: FKA Twigs plays Shelly. I was excited for this, as we all know her to be quite a notable figure in fashion. How did you approach designing her costumes, and what aspects of her character did you aim to highlight through her wardrobe?
Bart: Twigs' unique sense of style lent itself perfectly to Shelly's character, enhancing her rebellious spirit and artistic sensibilities. We drew inspiration from iconic artists such as Nina Hagen, Siouxsie Sioux, and Patti Smith, both in terms of style and artistic vision. Combat boots anchored each of Shelly's looks, giving her a grounded, street-level attitude.
Question: Danny Huston plays a sinister character with a dark secret that presents as someone who could be approachable and perhaps kind. Are there clues in his costume that might allude to the underlying darkness?
Kurt: Danny Huston masterfully portrayed a character that toes the line between charm and malevolence. His garments were tailored to evoke an aura of power and sophistication, but with a hint of devilish charm. The blood-red dressing gown worn in his bedroom revealed a sinister side, mirroring the darkness within the character.
Question: The Crow should be commended for its ability to create an immersive world. Behind the scenes, there was clear collaboration between all of the departments. Can you tell me about your collaboration with hair/makeup and the production designer, Robin Brown?
Bart: Collaboration was key in creating the rich, immersive world of The Crow. We worked closely with hair and makeup to ensure a cohesive aesthetic for the film. Our early discussions with Rupert Sanders allowed us to identify a shared vision, enabling the design process to flow smoothly once production began in Prague. Working with production designer Robin Brown was an effortless collaboration, as our aesthetic goals aligned seamlessly.
Question: There is a lot of action, violence, and blood in The Crow. How did you approach the breakdown and aging of the costumes to reflect the intensity of these scenes?
Bart: The intense action scenes necessitated the creation of multiple coats for Bill Skarsgård, each with intricate details and pieces. Our Czech crew performed exceptionally, constructing ten coats that could withstand the demands of the elaborate action sequences. The designers and costume team carefully managed the transitions and deterioration of the coats throughout the film, ensuring that they accurately reflected the violence and emotional turmoil on screen.
Question: Looking back on the project, what was the most rewarding part of working on The Crow?
Kurt: Every film is a significant endeavor, requiring a strong team dedicated to creating something memorable. Working on The Crow offered the opportunity to collaborate with exceptional crew members and talented actors, both in the Czech Republic and abroad. The film's dark, emotional narrative, combined with a fresh visual interpretation, made it a deeply rewarding project.
Bart: Working on The Crow represented a unique opportunity to reimagine the iconic story for a contemporary audience, while still honoring its original spirit. Collaborating with Rupert Sanders once again and revisiting Prague—a city that holds a special place in our hearts—made this project particularly rewarding.
Working with Rupert Sanders on The Crow was a rewarding experience, characterized by mutual trust and clear communication. His refined taste and understanding of costume design were instrumental in achieving the film's desired aesthetic. (Kurt)
Throughout the film, color was carefully chosen and strategically used to reflect Eric's emotional journey, with lighter shades symbolizing sensitivity, while darker hues indicated emotional turmoil and tragedy. (Kurt)
