Manchester, a city in Northwest England once known for its textile industry, may seem an odd choice for Chanel's latest fashion show. However, the city's reputation as a hotbed of creativity, from the New Romantics and Britpop bands of the 80s and 90s, like The Smiths and Oasis, to its renowned literary scene, makes it an intriguing backdrop for a high-end brand like Chanel.
It's true that Chanel has roots in Manchester, thanks to the Duke of Westminster's connections to the city and his property in Chesil. Still, the connection might seem somewhat tenuous, especially considering that Coco Chanel, the brand's founder, may not have ever visited Manchester herself.
Despite this, the show demonstrated an unpretentious respect for British heritage, with elements like 1960s-style Mary-Jane pumps, tweed berets in unexpected colors like fuchsia and chocolate brown, and Converse-like sneakers directly referencing British streetwear.
But it's not just about a nod to the past. Chanel has always been a brand that embraces tradition and innovates simultaneously. The show featured classic Chanel designs with a modern twist, like a suit with a hahnentrittmuster, golden Chanel buckles, and a mix of diamonds, pearls, and opals.
The show also served as an homage to the master craftsmen who contribute to the Chanel brand. In fact, the Metiers d'Art collection referenced in the show's title is a testament to Chanel's commitment to championing these artisans and their crafts.
Not everyone was thrilled, though. The show took place on the city's cobblestone streets, shielding guests from the weather under a massive temporary canopy—affording locals little more than a glimpse through a barricade. Some locals took to social media, expressing their frustration at the private event, with one comment saying, "Chanel came the whole way to Manchester, but the locals couldn't watch."
Despite criticism, it was clear that the show was a celebration of Manchester's unique spirit, blending tradition and innovation with the city's famous (or notorious!) sense of rebellion. From a knelt-down black jacket adorned with deconstructed red, white, and black appliqués, to a suit made of a knitted fabric adorned with sequins, flowers, and feathers that took 300 hours to create, the show was a love letter to the city's artisans and its refusal to be defined by its past.
As Christelle Kocher, creative director of Lemaire, explains: "The idea behind this collection is tweed, but it's also about Punk energy, music, and everything I felt and saw in Manchester and in Britain."
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Manchester may have moved on from its textile past, but Chanel's latest fashion show embraced the city's rebellious spirit and rich history of artisanship by showcasing classic Chanel designs with a modern twist. Despite some local criticism, the show was a feast for the eyes, blending tradition and innovation with the city's famous sense of rebellion.
