Boucheron's Daring New Jewelry Collection Reimagines Its Founder's Legacy
Boucheron's creative director Claire Choisne has unveiled a bold new high jewellery collection at Paris Couture Week. Titled Nom: Boucheron Prénom: Frédéric, the line pays tribute to the brand's founder through four defining traits: audacity, innovation, liberating design, and a deep love of nature. The showcase featured striking black couture dresses and diamonds dramatically lit against a dark backdrop.
The collection opens with a 10-carat emerald-cut diamond pendant, its octagonal shape echoing the Place Vendôme square where Boucheron first set up shop. This piece embodies the founder's audacity, setting the tone for the rest of the designs.
The Spark necklace reimagines the brand's iconic Question Mark design, originally created to be fastened without help—a radical idea in the era of corsets. Its articulated swirl of mixed-cut diamonds conceals a spring mechanism, allowing it to loop effortlessly around the neck.
Another highlight, The Silhouette, consists of shoulder brooches adorned with seven metres of bezel-set diamonds. Versatile in design, they can also be worn as necklaces or bracelets, reflecting Boucheron's innovative approach to body adornment.
The final piece, The Untamed, draws inspiration from nature and an archival sketch. It features white diamond ivy cascading down the torso, with trembling leaves set en tremblant. This transformable jewel can be split into 13 separate pieces, showcasing Choisne's blend of emotion and practicality.
Choisne's work often merges tradition with futurism, as seen in her 2021 Faisceaux brooch. Acquired by the Victoria & Albert Museum, it uses a metallic coating on rock crystal to create a prism-like effect. While no groundbreaking technical innovations were introduced in this latest collection, her use of materials—from diamonds to mother of pearl—continues to push boundaries in high jewellery.
The Nom: Boucheron Prénom: Frédéric collection reinforces Choisne's reputation as a disruptor in the jewellery world. By weaving together the founder's legacy with modern craftsmanship, the pieces offer both wearable art and a glimpse into Boucheron's enduring philosophy. The designs will remain on display following their Paris debut, cementing their place in the brand's storied history.
