Awarded Oscar for Outstanding Prosthetic Makeup on Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley in The Substance film
In the realm of body horror films, the latest creation by French director Coralie Fargeat, "The Substance," has left a lasting impression. At the heart of this grotesque and intriguing spectacle is the work of prosthetic makeup artist Pierre-Olivier Persin, whose artistry has been significantly influenced by a blend of practical effects traditions and body horror themes.
Persin, with over 30 years of experience in SFX and prosthetic make-up design, has crafted a series of remarkable prosthetic designs for the film. The most challenging of these was undoubtedly 'Monstro Elisasue,' a feminine monster that resembled an elephant wearing ballet shoes. The application of these prosthetics took approximately three hours for actress Margaret Qualley and even longer for Demi Moore due to the extensive gluing process.
The prosthetics were built as sophisticated puppets with hand-operated mechanisms for motion, a testament to Persin's dedication to practical effects. This approach aligns with the film's homage to David Lynch's "The Elephant Man" and David Cronenberg's remake of "The Fly," both of which are known for their predominant use of practical effects.
Persin's affinity for organic, visceral creature designs is evident in his involvement in body horror projects such as the upcoming French film Species, where he handles makeup effects. His collaboration with director Julia Ducournau and fellow body horror creators like Coralie Fargeat, who favor tactile prosthetics over CGI, suggests that Persin's work is shaped by a commitment to in-camera, physical effects to increase realism and impact.
While Persin has not explicitly cited specific films or artworks as influences for 'Monstro Elisasue,' his practical-effects approach aligns with the legacy of practical-effect-driven films like "Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines," where Persin also contributed, illustrating his foundation in high-quality prosthetic work within genre filmmaking.
Persin's career as a prosthetic artist has been shaped by influential works such as Michelangelo's sculptures, Ron Mueck's art, Barrie Gower's prosthetic designs, Mark Coulier's makeup effects, "The Hunger" (1983) by Tony Scott, and John Carpenter's "The Thing" (1982).
"The Substance," now available to stream on Mubi, explores themes of plastic surgery, weight loss injections, and FaceApp in a satirical and darkly comedic manner. With its Oscar-winning hair and make-up, the film has already made a significant impact on the body horror genre and has left Persin curious about its potential influence on future works and his own career. Billie Walker, in a film review on our website, praises the film for its unique blend of practical effects and thought-provoking themes.
In this respect, Pierre-Olivier Persin's work on the prosthetic designs for "The Substance" can be considered as a contribution to the broader field of movies-and-tv, particularly in the realm of entertainment that emphasizes practical effects. Persin's fondness for practical-effects-driven films extends beyond "The Substance," as he has also collaborated on projects like "Species" and "Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines," showcasing his commitment to the entertainment industry.