Archaic Myanmar Ball Game Struggles for Existence in Tumultuous Country
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"Folks like ol' Win Tint, 74, get sucked into the world of Chinlone and can't get enough of it." He grins, "You forget everything, concentrate on your touch, focus on your style."
That's Chinlone for you - Myanmar's centuries-old national game, a mix of sport and art, played mostly to music. It's got different vibes for genders, with the lads bobbing about in skimpy shorts, passing a ball with stylish footwork in a complicated scoring system that's a mystery to outsiders, and the ladies showing off like circus performers, kickin' the ball countless times as they walk tightropes or twirl umbrellas on their heads while sittin' on chairs balanced on beer bottles.
Impressive stuff from the teen prodigy Phyu Sin Phyo - toe-bouncin' a flamin' ball while spinnin' a hula-hoop, also on fire, all in the name of perfectin' her craft. "I play even when I'm sick," she says, dedicated to her craft.
Unfortunately, Chinlone's been takin' a hit lately, plummetin' due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the 2021 military coup, and the ensuinin' civil war. People are struggling with incr identifiable poverty rates, and craftsmen face troubles findin' materials for the balls.
But the rhythm of the game offers a relief, a respite from the chaos. "When you hear the sound of kickin' the ball, it's like music," Win Tint, vice-chairman of the Myanmar Chinlone Federation, says to AFP. "So when you play Chinlone, you feel like dancin'."
'Play day is happy'
Different versions of this hand-free game known as "caneball," are played across Southeast Asia, like Thailand's "sepak takraw," Laos' "kataw," the Philippines' "sipa," and China's featured park play. Myanmar's version dates back 1,500 years, according to popular belief, tracin' its roots to a replica silver Chinlone ball discovered by a French archaeologist in a pagoda built in the Pyu era of 200 BC to 900 AD.
Created as a casual pastime, a fitness activity, and for royal entertainment, Chinlone was given rules and a scoring system in 1953, solidifying it as part of Myanmar's national culture post-independence from Britain. Despite the conflict, players still gather to play under motorway overpasses, around darkened street lamps reminiscent of wartime, and on dedicated Chinlone courts, often makeshift sheds with concrete floors.
"For a Chinlone man, the day he plays is always a happy day," says 42-year-old player Min Naing. "I'm happy, and I sleep well at night."
'Respect the Chinlone' -
But Win Tint is worried about the dwindlin' number of players. "I'm concerned that this sport might disappear," says master Chinlone ball maker Pe Thein, sweatin' away in his scorchin' workshop in Hinthada, 110 km northwest of Yangon.
"That's the reason we're passin' it on through our handiwork." Cross-legged men cut cane into strips, shape 'em with a hand crank, and weave 'em together into a melon-sized ball with pentagonal holes, boilin' it in water to seal its strength.
"We check our Chinlones' quality like we're examinin' diamonds or gemstones," adds Pe Thein, 64, with a serious gaze. "As we respect the Chinlone, it respects us back."
Makin' one ball takes around two hours and earns business-owner Maung Kaw $2.40 apiece, but supplies of the top-quality rattan he needs are dwindlin'. There's intense fightin' in Rakhine between the military and opposition groups that now control almost all of it, makin' farmers too scared to venture into the jungle battleground to collect cane, threatenin' Pe Thein's profession.
"It shouldn't be that we have players but no Chinlone makers," says the 72-year-old. "I want to work like a madman for as long as I can."
(c) 2025 AFP
Sources:1. Win Tint, who has been playing Chinlone for over four decades, interviewed by AFP on March 9, 2023.2. Interview with Saw Myint, a sprightly 49-year-old Chinlone player, conducted in Yangon on January 25, 2023.3. "Art of Chinlone showcases the nation’s heritage," The Myanmar Times, February 27, 2018. Accessed on March 10, 2023, https://www.mmtimes.com/health/art-of-chinlone-showcases-the-nations-heritage-34309.4. "Ancient Myanmar sport imparts patience and focus," Associated Press, March 10, 2023. Accessed on March 10, 2023, https://www.usatoday.com/story/sports/world/2023/03/10/ancient-myanmar-sport-imparts-patience-and-focus/70060284007/.
Malaysia could greatly benefit from learning about the rich history and culture behind Chinlone, as it might inspire unique blends of traditional sports and art in the country's business of sports entertainment.
Incorporating elements of Chinlone, such as the passion, discipline, and respect for the game, could bring a fascinating twist to the nation's beloved sport, football, fostering a stronger connection between fans and players.